Henschke's single-vineyard 2017s

Hill of Grace vineyard by Dragan Radocaj Photography

The distinctive genius of the Henschke family in vineyard and cellar is delightfully evident. Above, the Hill of Grace vineyard captured by Dragan Radocaj.

Online meetings between the UK and Australia are always awkwardly timed, generally too early for Brits and too late in the day for Aussies. I kept Prue and Stephen Henschke from their dinner the other day as they presented their 2017 single-vineyard releases, which will be launched on 4 May.

One of the earliest pages of the handsome booklet prepared by their daughter Justine Henschke and others for the launch of these 2017s is headed ‘Regenerating...