Inside Cheval's new chai

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All the money that the Bordeaux proprietors have been making in recent vintages has to go somewhere and a great deal of it, to judge from appearances in the region, has been going into building works.

The (relatively) new owners of Ch Cheval Blanc have been well and truly putting their stamp on this top St-Emilion by constructing a completely new, modernistic chai next to the modest original chateau. Below is how the construction site looked from Ch La Conseillante last April. Above is the fence attempting to hide the building work from view.

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But perhaps the most significant...