Lenz Moser's big Chinese trial

Ch Changyu Moser XV fountain

LMM Projects is busy, busy, busy – not least with pitting its wine made at this 'chateau' in China against Ch Lafite. See How good are China's top wines?

Lenz Maria Moser, as he styles himself to distinguish himself from the vine-training system and the Austrian winery called Lenz Moser, once owned by his family, seems to be everywhere at the moment – much more energetically than the average 67-year-old.

He now has joint ventures with Markus Huber in his native Austria, with Mad Wine in Tokaj and with Pedro Ribeiro of Herdade do Rocim in Portugal (with lightweight 360-g...