Lenz Moser's big Chinese trial

Ch Changyu Moser XV fountain

LMM Projects is busy, busy, busy – not least with pitting its wine made at this 'chateau' in China against Ch Lafite.

Lenz Maria Moser, as he styles himself to distinguish himself from the vine-training system and the Austrian winery called Lenz Moser, once owned by his family, seems to be everywhere at the moment – much more energetically than the average 67-year-old.

He now has joint ventures with Markus Huber in his native Austria, with Mad Wine in Tokaj and with Pedro Ribeiro of Herdade do Rocim in Portugal (with lightweight 360-g bottles). But his first and most important...