I've just had an email correspondence with Adam Lechmere, the editor of decanter.com, a wine news site updated with admirable frequency. He tells me he really likes the new design of this site and, when I asked for specific comments, he suggested my wine of the week reviews could be shorter.
He's quite right. I see that they have grown over the years. And I'm sure you're all in a hurry – it's just that there's so much to say...
Now, this here white burgundy is absolutely delicious. Of course it would be made by someone about which there is so much to say. Jean T is arguably the most idiosyncratic producer of Clessé, the one who was making botrytised Chardonnay aeons ago, the one who in a way inspired the new Viré-Clessé appellation, but whose wines are too rich to be allowed to use it. His other, fiscally independent domaine is Emilian-Gillet. Both labels are encountered on some of the most concentrated, distinctive wines of the dynamic Mâconnais region. He often releases wines much later than other producers, which is why Adnams of Southwold in England can offer this 2000 now, when it is drinking beautifully.
This particular bottling is labelled Cuvée Tradition and costs just £14.99 chez Adnams. According to the invaluable winesearcher.com many other merchants around the world have other very similar-looking wines, often for slightly more money. Those labelled Sélection Jean Thévenet should be an even more concentrated, slower maturing bottling. But this Cuvée Tradition – with its smoky nose; floral, wild, exciting, butterscotch flavours that are broad without being fat; and great length – is just right for drinking now, and getting you in the mood to buy lots of 2002 burgundies. See my tasting notes on hundreds of them this week on purple pages.
Still too long, Adam?