Pame volta. That’s Greek for let’s go for a walk – in this case, to Monemvasia, one of the most beautiful spots in the world. This Byzantine town is built into a colossal rock that sits off the southern Peloponnese mainland, connected by only a long, narrow strip of land; its name, in fact, means ‘one entry’ (mono emvasis).
By some miracle, the walled town – Europe’s oldest continually inhabited fortified city – has been carefully preserved thanks to strict architectural regulations. There are no cars allowed; to enter, you must walk through the old wooden doors, being relieved of any luggage or heavier items by a porter with a cart or donkey.
From there, you’re free to walk the cobblestone paths (voltes, as seen in the photo above) that wind between the ancient stone buildings of the old town, each seemingly stacked on to the next as they climb the hillside, up to the citadel that crowns the rock at 300 m (984 ft) in elevation, from where you can take in a nearly 360° view of the electric-blue Aegean.
Monemvasia’s position – its sea access, impregnable cliffs and unimpeded views – made it a vital Venetian stronghold. It was from here that they shipped gallons of wine – exactly what sort is still debated, besides the fact that it was sweet and highly prized – but whatever it was, it became world-famous as malmsey, a corruption of Malvasia, then used as a collective name for a host of sweet wines.
This history inspired George and Elli Tsimbidis to create Monemvasia Winery in Velies, about 15 minutes by car north-west of the island, in 1997. As Julia reported following her 2010 visit, their main objective was to recreate the sweet wines that put Monemvasia on the world wine map (what they refer to as their ‘Malvasia Project’).
They succeeded, winning a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for Monemvasia-Malvasia in 2010 based on their historical research as well as extensive experimentation in the vineyards and winery – which, by the way, resulted in a deep-golden non-fortified, dried-grape elixir that’s well worth seeking out.
But to get to this end, the Tsimbidises planted some 30 ha (74 acres) of vines, all organically farmed, including local specialities such as Kydonitsa as well as imports from other parts of Greece, like Limniona. And they did a lot of experimenting – which has paid off in a broad portfolio of wines.
One of the latest offerings, Voltes, takes its cues from the Tsimbidis’ daughters, Marialena, who joined them in 2017, and Anastasia, who came on in 2020. (Their third, Artemis, will join as soon as she finishes school.)
The Voltes red is based on Agiorgitiko and Mavroudi – the same varieties George used to create Monemvasios, the winery’s flagship red, but rather than aiming for an ornate, oak-aged wine, Marialena and Anastasia wanted something young and fresh, opting for only a short maceration and vinification entirely in stainless steel.
For the white Voltes, they forgo the region’s tricky Kydonitsa and Asproudi, leaving them for the sweet wine or for small-batch dry whites, and instead buy in Roditis and Moschofilero from Mantinia, a high, cool plateau a couple hours north of the winery.
The results are wines that stand out for their freshness and immediacy – the white wine just lightly floral but mainly savoury, with palate-whetting acidity; the red as juicy and bright as its red hue. (There is also a rosé, which I haven’t tasted.) Priced around $15/£15, these are terrific candidates for house wines, ready to drink on their own as aperitifs or to pull out for impromptu parties, or to just crack open on a random Wednesday night. (The red is also an entirely reasonable 12.5% alcohol, the white 13%.)
Either way, both are a terrific excuse to embark on a little mental volta around a truly exceptional corner of the world, and at a low cost.
So, pame volta – to get some Voltes.
Note that you might find this producer listed as Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi. Top photo of Monemvasia cobblestone path by Ernests Vaga for Unsplash; all other photos courtesy of the winery.
Find out more about Greek wines – from malmsey to modern – in The Oxford Companion to Wine. We also have nearly 4,000 Greek wine reviews available to members in our tasting notes database.
