Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Nick's top 25 restaurants

Sunday 4 April 2004 • 1 min read
1. St John, London. For its bar, restaurant and bread.

2. Ballymaloe, Co Cork, Eire. The Allan's culinary beacon in a stunningly tranquil setting.

3. The Walnut Tree Inn, near Abergavenny, Wales, for unforgettable New Year Day lunches.

4. The Fat Duck, Bray where Heston Blumenthal pushes the boundaries of cooking to extremes.

5. El Bulli, Rosas, Spain. Where Ferran Adria does the same but with a far larger team in a restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean.

6. The small town of Mealhada between Porto and Lisbon. Initially discovered by lorry drivers this is the epicentre of suckling pig restaurants worldwide.

7. Olivier Roellinger, Cancale, northern France. Elegance, cooking inspired by the herbs and spices of the former French Empire and oysters in abundance.

8. Taillevent, Paris. The standard bearer – what every French restaurant in the world should seek to emulate.

9. La Crepa, Isola Doverese, near Cremona, Italy. Wonderful food and wine in a 19th century building within a medieval walled town.

10. Tomata, Santorini. Set within a former olive oil factory, ten metres from the beach this is modern Greek food at its best.

11. Cafe Pushkin, Moscow. A perfect replica of a 19th Russian restaurant which is, amazingly, only four years old.

12. Kronenhalle, Zurich. Wonderfully robust food but the art on the walls is even more memorable.

13. The Merchant House, Ludlow, Shropshire. The one man show, where chef/proprietor Shaun Hill is as proficient a chef as he is a washer-up.

14. Gidleigh Park, Devon. A unique combination – where the food and the wine match the views over Dartmoor.

15. Steirereck, Vienna. Unusual Styrian food and wonderful wines in an impressive setting.

16. L'Atelier du Robuchon, Paris. The modern face of the restaurant which breaks down the barrier between the customer and the chef.

17. The sushi bar at Nobu, London. Theatre, fantastic fish and enjoyable even if you are on your own.

18. Alle Testiere, Venice. Definitely the smallest (10 tables!) and certainly one of the most perfect fish restaurants anywhere.

19. Troisgros, Roanne, France. Untouchable even after 40 years and its brasserie, Central, just round the corner is unmissable, too.

20. Bull & Bear, Oporto, Portugal. Inspired, cerebral cooking from a chef who initially trained as a classical pianist.

21. Torre del Remi, Pyrenees

22. Gastronomica Clinica, Albergo Arnaldo, Rubiera, Italy The most aptly named restaurant in the world which also serves the very finest bollito misto.

23. Hotel Benazuza, outside Seville, southern Spain. Staffed by disciples of Ferran Adria who serve the most inspired breakfast.

24. Harry's Bar, London

25. Bibendum, London. For its style, oyster bar and its initial chef, Simon Hopkinson.

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 287,514 wine reviews & 15,851 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 287,514 wine reviews & 15,851 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 287,514 wine reviews & 15,851 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 287,514 wine reviews & 15,851 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Nick on restaurants

Las Teresas with hams
Nick on restaurants Head to the far south of Spain for atmospheric and inexpensive hospitality. Above, the Bar Las Teresas in the old...
Lilibet's raw fish bar
Nick on restaurants What is it about Saturday lunch? A tale of one enjoyed at Mayfair’s latest opening. Very fancy! It has been...
Sylt with beach and Strandkörbe
Nick on restaurants An annual round-up of gastronomic pleasure. Above, the German island of Sylt which provided Nick with an excess of it...
Poon's dining room in Somerset House
Nick on restaurants A daughter revives memories of her parents’ much-loved Chinese restaurants. The surname Poon has long associations with the world of...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Ch Telmont vineyards and Wine news in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus, Telmont becomes Champagne’s first Regenerative Organic Certified producer, Argentina repeals wine regulations and the EU rules on de-alcoholised wine...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...
The Chase vineyard of Ministry of Clouds
Wines of the week A perfectly ordinary extraordinary wine. From €19.60, £28.33, $19.99 (direct from the US importer, K&L Wines). A few months ago...
São Vicente Madeira vineyards
Tasting articles Wines from this extraordinary Portuguese island in the middle of the Atlantic, varying from five to 155 years old. The...
flowering Pinot Meunier vine
Tasting articles Once a bit player, Pinot Meunier is increasingly taking a starring role in English wines. Above, a Pinot Meunier vine...
2brouettes in Richbourg,Vosne-Romanee
Free for all Information about UK merchants offering 2024 burgundy en primeur. Above, a pair of ‘brouettes’ for burning prunings, seen in the...
Opus prep at 67
Tasting articles Quite a vertical! In London in November 2025, presented by Opus’s long-standing winemaker. Opus One is the wine world’s seminal...
Doug Tunnell, owner of Brick House Vineyard credit Cheryl Juetten
Tasting articles Save water, drink these wines from the Deep Roots Coalition, a group of producers who eschew irrigation. Among them is...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.