Truly angelic

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I had the most delicious sweet wine the other day. It came from the ancient half-bottle, pictured in my usual amateur, Michael Middleton manner (so beautiful I cannot bear to throw it out), and was made in the most unlikely place, in the new Sta Rita Hills AVA in southern California, where some of the Central Coast's finest Pinot Noir is grown. But this wine, described here, has nothing to do with Pinot Noir and tastes like nothing else I can think of.

I asked the winemaker/proprietor of Gypsy Canyon, Deborah Hall, to explain more:

'We bought our country...