Of yeast and Brunello

Monte Amiata as seen from San Polino estate in Montalcino

Another revealing encounter at San Polino outside Montalcino and praise for their 2014.

At the beginning of August I visited Katia Nussbaum and her husband Luigi Fabbro at San Polino, their estate in Montalcino. (Right is Monte Amiata as seen from San Polino.) Nussbaum, who in a widely admired recent article wrote about how she would like biodynamics to embrace science and become less dogmatic, wants San Polino to be more than just a wine estate. She got bored of talking about ‘fruit and tannins’, she told me last year. Both Nussbaum and I are of the view that wine...