Of yeast and Brunello

At the beginning of August I visited Katia Nussbaum and her husband Luigi Fabbro at San Polino, their estate in Montalcino. (Right is Monte Amiata as seen from San Polino.) Nussbaum, who in a widely admired recent article wrote about how she would like biodynamics to embrace science and become less dogmatic, wants San Polino to be more than just a wine estate. She got bored of talking about ‘fruit and tannins’, she told me last year. Both Nussbaum and I are of the view that wine...