A guide to Long Island wines

A two-hour drive east from Manhattan sits Long Island wine country. While winegrowing in the region began in the mid 1970s, it didn’t develop a concentration of vines for another 20 years. Though its wines have benefited from proximity to the city and its restaurateurs focused on local goods, they have remained largely ignored critically. The island’s vintage variation and its ongoing search for regional identity have made it easy to overlook, but two recent vintages, 2013 and 2014, exhibit the clarity and vibrancy the region can offer from...