Argentina, Spain and Reserva – the madness of wine law

I say, I say, I say. What do you get if you cross wine labels, Argentina, Spain and articles 32(1), 33, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40(2)(c) and 42(1) of European Commission Council Regulation 607/2009?

You get a painful and protracted saga over the usage of the term 'Reserva' on Argentinian wine labels.

Okay, it's not the best punchline – but it does at least provide an insight into the gruesome bureaucratic wrangling that can take place behind the scenes in wine.

The story came to light last week as I was travelling in Argentina. Chakana is a quality-focused, Mendoza-based...