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Burgundy 2009 A-D

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Our tasting notes are – phew – now just about complete. For a guide to our comprehensive coverage of this exceptional vintage, see Burgundy 2009 – a guide.

DOMAINE STÉPHANE ALADAME

White
Clear piercing lemon and just a touch salty. Firm, moderately dense, dry and harmonious. (JH)
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £204 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
White
Precision on the nose – which actually came as rather a relief after the softness of a range of Louis Michel’s Chablis. Fresh and refreshing. Light and very pretty but not the sort for an en primeur wine. Hint of nuttiness. (JR)
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Price: £105 per case ib OW Loeb
White
A bit denser but not fresher than the Découverte. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £120 per case ib OW Loeb

BERTRAND AMBROISE

White
A little smoky on the nose then rather harsh on the palate. Breadth rather than finesse. (JH)
Drink: 2011 – 2012
Price: £150 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
White
Honeyed quince. A little bit oxidative in style. Heavy on the palate. Lots of flavour but not the flavour I’m looking for. (JH)
Drink: 2012 – 2013
Price: £186 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
White
Sweet cherry compote aroma. Fresh but tannins are rather drying. Cherry fruit struggles to assert itself. (JH)
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Price: £348 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
White
Ripe lemon – lemon linctus. The sample is warm but even so this seems rather lacking in energy. It’s fresh and creamy but a bit coarse. (JH)
Drink: 2013 – 2019
Price: £636 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Red
Screw cap. A bit tarty and chewy and demanding. Hard. (JR)
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Imported by Montrachet
Red
Lots of fruit and a certain amount of charm. Racy and lively, and relaxed and flattering. (JR)
Drink: 2010 – 2013
Imported by Montrachet
Red
Sweet baked fruit on nose and palate. Sightly fresher on the palate but that cooked side spoils it overall. (JH)
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £528 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Red
Really bretty nose and completely dried out on the palate. (JH)
Drink: 0
Price: £570 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet

DOMAINE AMIOT-SERVELLE

Red
Pinkish cherry colour. Dusty, almost leafy note over the red cherry fruit. Sweet oak spice on the mid palate. Fine dry tannins, upright and pretty austere at the moment. (JH)
Drink: 2014 – 2021
Price: £432 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet
Red
Gentle dark fruit. Quite sweet on the nose. More depth than on the Chambolle, firm, dry and hidden on the palate. (JH)
Drink: 2015 – 2022
Price: £612 per case dp inc VAT Montrachet

DOMAINE ARLAUD
Bit simple and dull.

Red
Light crimson. Light, jujube nose. Easy and simple. A bit too light to be of great interest. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2014
Price: £112 per case ib Flint
Red
Solid and a little rustic on the nose. Light and sweet. Simple. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £250 per case ib Flint
Red
Quite dark crimson. Round and like a cherry boiled sweet/hard candy. Easy and round but not ultimately that interesting, I’m afraid. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2021
Price: £210 per case of 6 ib Flint
Red
Much lighter than most Gevreys. Basic fruit. Dry finish. Not quite enough in the middle. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2023
Price: £220 per case of 6, £230 per 3 magnums ib Flint
Red
Rich, round nose delivers pleasure in spades. By a mile the best wine from this producer I have tasted so far – though pretty sweet and forward. Almost sickly... (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2020
Price: £295 per case of 6, £305 per 3 magnums, £225 per one jeroboam ib Flint

DOMAINE DE L'ARLOT
Worrying – shame because I liked the last guy I met from here (chez Corney & Barrow).

White
Big and round with lots of impact but the batonnage element seems a little too strong for the price. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £435 per case ib Goedhuis
Red
Scented. Light and dry and possibly slightly too relaxed? Easy peasy. Slightly drying on the end. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £180 per case ib Goedhuis
Red
Sweet fruit + sweet oak = not the most convincing Nuits. Who is this aimed at, I wonder? Not the traditional burgundy fan. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £225 per case ib Goedhuis
Red
Scented. Relatively light and subdued. Then hard work on the finish. Awfully aggressive tannins considering how ripe the fruit should have been..? (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2020
Price: £260 per case ib Goedhuis
Red
Heady and hedonistic (do we need the word hedonistic for wines like this?) Loose and open and beguiling. But not refreshing. The first wine I have come across where I have actively worried about the low acid level. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2018
Price: £465 per case ib Goedhuis
Red
Quite deep crimson. Smells rather cheesy. Not pure at all! Rustic tannins. Where is all that mellifluous fruit? (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2019
Price: £465 per case ib Goedhuis
Red
Smells of beef extract. Then good fruit on the mid palate. Lively. Much the best of the wines from this address but still a bit aggressively chewy. Not refreshing enough. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £625 per case ib Goedhuis

DOMAINE ARNOUX-LACHAUD

Red
Fresh and just a little (white) peppery. Gentle, fruity, delicate, but all over rather quickly. (JH)
Drink: 2011 – 2012
Price: £140 per case ib Armit
Red
Comfortably relaxed fruity nose. Lots of easy sweetness. Pretty GV (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £70 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Red
Pretty rich and flashy on the nose. Very sweet start. Rather softer and less convincing than usual at this domaine. Lacks refreshment. Too sweet and soft. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2019
Price: £360 per case ib Armit; £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
Red
Very sweet start – flattering. Falls away a little fast. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £133 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £265 per case ib Armit
Red
Extraordinarily sweet – too jammy. Pastiche style. Very drying end. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2023
Price: £174 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
Red
Light crimson. Good focus and energy. Some real race and class. Dry finish so still a bit awkward. These three Arnoux-Lachaux wines at Lay & Wheeler I found a little disappointing. (JR)
Drink: 2017 – 2023
Price: £285 per case of 6 ib Armit; £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
Red
More exciting than the village Chambolle but still it lacks the sheer terroir definition that usually defines this producer. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2020
Price: £POA per case ib Lay & Wheeler
Red
Quite blueish. Rich and sweet but with less obvious class than some previous vintages. Tough. Needs time. (JR)
Drink: 2019 – 2029
Price: £800 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £800 per case of 6 ib Armit

DOMAINE DENIS BACHELET
Very solid and lovely – good distinctiveness. A dream year. Age of vines a factor here.

Red
Deep crimson. Savoury and even a little leathery. Quite juicy and very interesting and complex already on the nose. This should make lively bottle! (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Red
Brochon, Queue de Hareng, near Perrières de Fixin. Dark and rich-looking. Substantial stuff – very rich and jolly – quite spicy and round. Lovely stuff that should not be too expensive. Real energy. Perhaps not for the real long term. Very good drainage on this steep plot. GV? (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Red
75 years but being replaced one by one. Mostly in the north of the village. Very dark. Very incense nose with real excitement and density. Very rich and supple and gorgeous. Just lovely – you would never think it was ‘just’ a village wine. Light calcaire pebbly slope – quite like Charmes. To be bottled after full moon in March. Very small bunches. So long and rich. Great reverberant stuff. (JR)
Drink: 2016 – 2025
Red
Just next to Mazis and Fonteny. A deep soil with some clay and marl but quite a cool terroir. Especially good in dry years.
Very rich and sumptuous on the nose – all black fruits. Intense and round and less lifted than the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes. Big and bold. Quite a bit of fine tannin on the finish. Best to wait. (JR)
Drink: 2018 – 2028
Red
Deep purplish crimson. Lift and playful note on the great big body of mass. Polished and shiny. Lots to enjoy here although it is more ambitious and less superficially charming than many a Charmes. Very well done. Great intensity. On the limit with Mazoyères in very shallow soils quite high up. Very expansive finish. (JR)
Drink: 2018 – 2030

DOMAINE JEAN-CLAUDE BACHELET

White
Sleek and polished. Very fine boned. Chewy end and it’s all tucked in but pretty convincingly. Just a little light on the end. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Price: £186 per case ib BBR
White
Quite open and nutty on the nose. Very fresh and racy. Strong lime notes. Lots of immediate appeal but not that much subtlety. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £312 per case ib BBR
White
Restrained nose. Quite tight and very well sculpted. Dry finish. Very chewy end. Fine. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2017
Price: £420 per case ib BBR

DOMAINE BACHELET-MONNOT

White
Rather basic and ordinary. Very open. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £150 per case ib Justerini & Brooks
White
Very racy. Bit of a racehorse. Though without the depth one might expect of a premier cru. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2017
Price: £470 per case, or £500 per case of 6 magnums ib Justerini & Brooks
White
Tense and positively juddering elbows. Not the most assured Grand Cru but made with great ambition and intent. Very racy. Lemon oil. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2022
Price: £1,120 per case, or £1,150 per case of 6 magnums ib Justerini & Brooks

DOMAINE BALLOT-MILLOT

White
Fresh lime flavours. Sweet start and a definite attempt to outperform the appellation. Real nerve. GV? (JR)
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Price: £105 per case ib Flint
White
Quite rich and heavy. Not bad but a bit foot dragging. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Price: £250 per case ib Flint
White
Liquorice and scent with low-key sweetness. Charming but far from knockout. Some nice minerality. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Price: £205 per case of 6 ib Flint
White
Heavy relatively speaking. Quite rich and ripe. No-one would be disappointed but I’m not sure they’d be thrilled by this. (JR)
Drink: 2013 – 2017
Price: £205 per case of 6 ib Flint

DOMAINE DANIEL BARRAUD

White
Quite a rich nose and real definition on the palate. Lots of minerals and interest. Manages not to be too fat. Well done! Quite long. I went back and tasted this again after their richer wines and still think it’s the best value of the lot because of the freshness... GV (JR)
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Price: £96 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
White
Some minerality on the nose. Sweet start but not quite as alert and refreshing as the (cooler?) Vergisson wine. Edgy finish but some structure. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £114 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
White
This wine is bottled by Daniel and Martin Barraud but actually carries the name Julien Barraud on the front label (Julien took over management of the domaine from his father in 2006). Very big and opulent on the nose. Round and sweet and polished and easy – very forward. (JR)
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Price: £117 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
White
Lightly honeyed nose. Then some green notes. Still quite youthful. Still a little aggressive, but full, rich and sweet and a bit heavy. Good to come across a white Maconnais with a future. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £93 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley; £180 per case ib Lea & Sandeman
White
Sweet and scented. Intense and rather headily floral though without too much acidity. Drink this herbal number quite soon. (JR)
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Price: £192 per case ib Lea & Sandeman

DOMAINE ROGER BELLAND

Red
A little soupy and very ripe. Flattering but without much structure. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2019
Price: £120 per case ib OW Loeb
Red
Rather raw and coarse. Sweet and round – almost more like a liqueur though with some new oak influence. Fine but not really exciting. Rather sickly finish. (JR)
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £164 per case, or £169 for 6 magnums ib OW Loeb
Red
Mid crimson. Very evolved nose. Then sweet. Not much structure for a Pommard. Bit soupy. Grainy light tannins on the end only. (JR)
Drink: 2015 – 2020
Price: £244 per case ib OW Loeb

DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD
Great confidence....
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