Here's another quite delicious 2000 red from the slopes of Mont Ventoux, even nobler and more thrilling than the Château Pesquié I recommended last oct.
Château Valcombe has nothing to do with the Ch de Valcombe of Costières de Nîmes (see wine news on 31 August last year) but is the Côtes du Ventoux property of Paul Jeune (owner of Domaine La Croze and Domaine Montpertuis in Châteauneuf and Vignobles de la Ramière in Roquemaure just across the Rhône from Châteauneuf).
Valcombe produces quite a range of Côtes du Ventoux red and white with the cuvée La Sereine being truly exceptional, in the case of both red and white having exceptionally high alcohols (over 14 per cent) but balanced by wonderfully natural acidity, thanks to the altitude of the vineyards at over 350 metres – much higher than in Châteauneuf, for example.
The rich, deeply satisfying, velvety, multi-layered Sereine Rouge 2000 which is already drinking beautifully but could be kept for at least another six years or more is made almost exclusively from cuttings of small-berried Syrah taken from Côte Rôtie and the wine does indeed have that combination of savour and fragrance that is to be found in the best wines of that appellation, but with the extra sweetness and spice of the southern Rhône.
The Sereine Blanc 2001 is also made from ultra-ripe grapes, 60 per cent Grenache Blanc and 40 per cent Roussanne to stop it being just too rich and flat. It's barrel-fermented and subjected to full Burgundian batonnage but because of the grapes and the cool nights has a liveliness and character all of its own. Just another Chardonnay this very much ain't. It's wild, intriguing, rich and full with notes of honeysuckle and greengage (reine claude) with great weight and interest. I'd drink the 2001, long and vibrato, over the next three years. The Sereine Blanc 2000 is rather less voluptuously gorgeous – in fact may be in surly middle age and come good eventually but at this price I wouldn't personally bank on it.
Valcombe's Genevrières Blanc 2001 is much more typical of the appellation but also much more interesting than most Ventoux whites. Made from 80 per cent Grenache Blanc and just 20 per cent Roussanne (younger vines and less oak), it still manages to be more refreshing than the Sereine if, having been picked earlier, with less long-term potential.
Sereine Rouge and Blanc are £16.95 from Laytons of London who currently stock the 2000 vintage of both but will be moving on to the 2001 white in a month or so.
In France, our old friends Rosenthal, NY
Switzerland – Yamazaki & Final, Tokiwacho-Shizuoka-Shi
