Current sparkle, in abundance

Tamlyn writes A recent tasting of Lea & Sandeman’s impressive collection of grower champagnes had me falling back in love with champagne after a long period of what one might call indifference. In his introduction to the tasting booklet, Charles Lea wrote that grower champagnes make up only 4% of the champagne market, highlighting the huge risk and investment these small vignerons have to take and make. Winemaking is not a business with a quick return on...