Giuseppe Rinaldi skirts round the organic question

Last May when I visited the Langhe to taste more than 200 embryonic Barolo and Barbaresco wines in this year's en primeur Nebbiolo Prima tastings, it struck me that such density of vine plantings must have a huge impact on soil health.

Although quite a few Piemontese producers do practise sustainable methods, with organic as well as biodynamic viticulture, the majority of growers and producers still stick to conventional methods. Now that the fine-wine debate seems more and more in favour of organic and biodynamic approaches (with the myriad confusions and misunderstandings that come with them), most producers are at...