Hungary's reds – a progress report

Hungary’s main indigenous red wine variety is Kékfrankos, which receives much more respect and attention over the border as Austria’s Blaufränkisch. ‘For me Kékfrankos is the only really good indigenous Hungarian red variety', said German-born Erhard Heumann of the 10-ha Heumann winery in Villány (where these pictures were taken). Hungary has 8,000 ha (19,768 acres) of the variety compared with Austria’s 3,000 ha and the variety has therefore been regarded as rather mass market and cheap. Much of it is used...