JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr 1988-2011

JJ Prüm's 2012s are currently being offered In the UK (at bargain prices) so we thought now would be a good time to remind ourselves what all the fuss is about – JR

For a JJ Prüm vertical – very nearly hallowed ground, I would submit – one might expect at the very least near-reverential silence, perhaps broken by the occasional erudite observation on the cerebral brilliance of the liquid before us.

Our host at a vertical tasting organised by the West London Wine School Jimmy Smith has another idea. Dressed in a purple paisley shirt, waistcoat, burgundy trousers and loud orange...