Léoville Las Cases back to 1955

Gruff is a word I used in one of my tasting notes below, taken last week at Roberson's in west London. And gruff is how I have found the experience of tasting en primeur at Léoville Las Cases – the wines not very approachable and owner Jean-Hubert Delon's voice deep and a little forbidding, occasionally verging on testy. However, this tasting was a lot more relaxed and included a few surprises, though these may have been partly due to bottle variation. (There were about 30 tasters and two or three bottles of each wine.) The 1996 grand vin was terrific...