Loire – new names to know

Down in the moodily lit cavern of Berry Bros & Rudd’s ‘Napoleon cellar’ (a room two storeys beneath the Berry Bros shop where the exiled and increasingly paranoid Louis-Napoléon III, nephew of Napoléon Bonaparte, used to skulk and write letters), it was almost impossible to see bottle labels, without a considerable time squinting, let alone the colour of the wine in the glass. I think...