Seneca Lake's Riesling apotheosis

They say that farming is a profession of hope. It takes a particular constitution to persist in a livelihood that in the age of climate chaos can seem like an endless battle against adversity. But how much more hope is required when the grape that you’re growing persists in being one of the hardest to sell in the market? Thankfully, the growers in New York’s Finger Lakes region have steadfastly soldiered on, with increasingly impressive results.

This month I’m taking a deep dive into the Rieslings...