The trouble with Alsace

When is a Pinot Blanc not a Pinot Blanc? When it’s an Auxerrois. And that’s no joke. Within the appellation rules of Alsace, a bottle of Pinot Blanc need not contain any Pinot Blanc at all. Indeed, most are a blend of Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc, but may also contain Pinot Noir (vinified white) and Pinot Gris.

This matters because such allowances make for an appreciable difference in flavour profile. Tasting a host of (apparent) Pinot Blancs...