Chianti bottle trouble

Chianti Classico producer Il Borghetto’s fetish for Burgundian bottles has fallen foul of the Chianti Classico Consorzio. Tim Manning, winemaker of Il Borghetto, an estate in Tuscany’s San Casciano, discovered recently that the regulations regarding bottle shape can change rather quickly and, in doing so, restrict him from continuing to fill the estate’s Chianti Classico in the sloping shouldered Burgundian bottles pictured here.

Originally from Liverpool, Manning came to Tuscany in 2004 on the back of vintages in New Zealand and Oregon where he had been working with Pinot Noir. He immediately saw similarities between Burgundy’s mainstay and Tuscany’s principal...