The 100 Club – the tyranny of scores

Laura Brunelli of Montalcino and her dog Orso, each with their mother

Matthew Hayes, our man in Burgundy, reflects.

Laura Brunelli is a lovely lady, pictured above with her dog Orso and their mothers, who presides each night, at least in normal times, over what I consider to be Siena’s greatest restaurant, Le Logge. Laura is also the proprietor of a Montalcino winery founded with her late husband, Gianni: Gianni Brunelli Le Chiuse di Sotto.

When not harassing Jancis et al with copy of one sort or another, I am also an importer into France of Italian wines, particularly Tuscan wines. I have previously written here about the quixotic game...