A rocky blueprint for Chile's future

Pedro Parra's vision of the Chilean wine revolution depends on rocks and working at a very small scale. He's realistic enough to accept that he cannot have a portfolio of dozens of wines from 19 ha but he imagines the day when small producers will provide an increasingly viable alternative to the large-scale vineyards and wineries that have dominated the Chilean wine scene so far, making reliable, inexpensive but largely indistinguishable varietal wines, the sort that have done so well in the past but rarely entice the adventurous. He expects these big producers to continue successfully, but can foresee medium-sized...