This year’s Ten Years On tasting at Farr Vintners included more of the lesser St-Émilions than usual because of the reputation of the vintage. There was disagreement among the 21 professional tasters as to whether this was a good idea or not.
Two of us writers spoke up in favour of them, viewing them as a group offering rich right-bank pleasure, often at a relatively affordable price. But the merchants, their impressions perhaps coloured by the previous excesses of St-Émilions past...
