Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2023 – H–J

Wednesday 29 January 2025 • 10 min read
Claudie Jobard

The eighth of our alphabetically organised tasting articles collating reviews of all the young burgundy 2023s tasted by Matthew in the Côte d’Or and by Jancis, Julia and Tam in London. Jon Wyand captured the image above of Claudie Jobard during London's Burgundy Week. See also this guide to our coverage of this vintage in Burgundy.

These 138 tasting notes are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus.

Mark Haisma (Gilly-lès-Citeaux)

White

Négociant bottling from several vineyards. Old vines. Cask/tank sample.
Really quite opulent! Well done! Really quite exciting. GV (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2030
Price: £19
White

Own vines, 1.3 ha, planted in 2018 in Moncey. First vintage 2022. Cask sample.
Bags of character. Open, apple-skin character. Almost dangerously open. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2032
Price: £22
White

Négociant bottling. Long-standing purchase from a grower named on the label: Nicolas Ruelle. But some growers don’t want to be named … Cask/tank sample.
Lively and rich. More throbbing than most white St-Romains. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2032
Price: £32.50
White

Négociant bottling. Certified organic. Cask/tank sample.
Rich and sweet. Very tingling. Really rather gorgeous. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2034
Price: £40
Red

Own vines. All Gevrey, fruit he used to buy from 2009. Some by the sports Complexe and some by Brochon. Certified organic. Cask sample.
A little raw on the nose. Tight and suave but not that wonderful. Chewy finish. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2030
Price: £20
Red

Négociant bottling. High elevation. Cold, white clay, west-facing site. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich fruit spreads across the palate. Smart! GV (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2036
Price: £28.50
Red

Négociant bottling. High, north-facing site. Cask sample.
A little gamey but with lots of character. Bit introvert at this stage with a hint of liquorice. (JR)

Drink: 2030 – 2044
Price: £36
Red

Multiple parcels of which 50% are owned by Haisma. Cask sample.
Sweet and almost animal! But firm and solid. Long and rich. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2040
Price: £41
Red

Own vines. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich and sweet from old vines. Lively and very fresh. (JR)

Drink: 2029 – 2043
Price: £48.50
Red

Négociant bottling. Cask sample.
Sweet fruit and violet notes in this blend from five different parcels. Firm on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2038
Price: £53.50
Red

Négociant bottling. First vintage 2014. Cask sample.
Lively fruit with cinnamon notes. Dry finish. A very concentrated wine but you’d have to love those very spicy notes. (JR)

Drink: 2030 – 2042
Price: £58
Red

Own vines. A plot next to Ruchottes with neighbours Dugat-Py and Bruno Clair. Certified organic. Cask sample.
Rich and really gorgeous but awfully expensive. Long and reverberant. (JH)

Drink: 2030 – 2045
Price: £129 (sold out)

Domaine des Hâtes, Maison des Hâtes (Chablis)

White

Citrus and stony, green-fruited aroma. Marked herbal note. Very crisp but the acidity is balanced by a gentle creamy texture. All present and correct, straightforward, well-made Chablis. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2028
Price: £145 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

A little riper than their straight Chablis. More citrus though there is a light herbal note. Deeper on the palate but not such a huge step up from the Chablis. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2026 – 2029
Price: £110 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman
White

Open aroma of citrus and green fruits plus a stony Chablis-typical overlay. Creamy texture balances the fruit but this doesn't have the intensity I would expect from a grand cru. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2030
Price: £230 per case of 6 ib Lea & Sandeman

Les Hauts de Milly (Milly)

...

White

Vineyards 50 km south of Chablis. Vegan.
Subtle, fresh lemon-citrus aroma. Light stone-dust note. Lots of fruit depth for the appellation and the vintage. Rounded, fresh. Very respectable. (JH)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2025 – 2027
Price: £23.49 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

Vegan. A more obviously mineral/stony aroma compared with the Bourgogne. Surprisingly soft and creamy on the palate, though not lacking freshness. Builds to greater length as you sip. (JH)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2026 – 2029
Price: £31.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

Available from March 2025. Vegan.
The aroma is both subtle and complex: herbal citrus and a light minerally impression. Even a hint of pears. Firm and gentle at the same time, with a long, fresh, slightly chewy finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2027 – 2033
Price: £41.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
White

Hélène Jaeger-Defaix's family has vineyards in Rully. Vegan. Cask sample.
Such a contrast with the Chablis Côte de Léchet just tasted. Richer, riper, with a touch of spice. Creamy with a light grip from the lees. Generous, succulent, long, really long. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2026 – 2030
Price: £41.99 RRP imported by Liberty Wines
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