Coming out from under the veil – a decade of Australia's vin jaune

‘I got a phone call. I think it must have been in about January 2009. It was Max Allen: “Rollo, have you heard about the Albariño identity crisis?” I had no idea what he was talking about.’ Rollo Crittenden is sitting in his garden on a late spring evening in Mornington Peninsula, blue sky and birds noisy over his shoulder as he rocks back in his chair like a schoolboy. To be fair, when he grins, which is often, he looks like schoolboy. He’s telling me the story about...