Cotat v Dagueneau (D)

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Loire wines really do need a bit more of a push. (I can hear Chinon broker Charles Sydney, whose vintage report we'll publish later in the week, groaning from where I write in New York.) The light and lively style of the wines is so in tune with what people are looking for now – and the news that Marlborough Sauvignon has overtaken Chardonnay as the single most popular wine in British bars and restaurants serves only to make me wonder why more people don't order Loire Sauvignon, especially from the excellent 2010 vintage surveyed in detail in Loire Sauvignon...