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  • Richard Hemming MW
Written by
  • Richard Hemming MW
23 Feb 2012

'At the level we are, it's much easier for quality to go down than up', said Paul Pontallier, the general director and winemaker at Château Margaux (pictured, centre). It was a pragmatic rather than an immodest statement, since their wines are consistently acknowledged as achieving the very best standards, and any wobble therefrom would surely…