A week on Saturday, I’ll explain just why the four producers profiled below are so unusual. For the moment, suffice it to say that they all operate and co-operate in a very small village at the northern limit of the Corbières (see this map of the western Languedoc just west of Lézignan-Corbières).
The 600-m (1,970-ft) peak of the Montagne d’Alaric that marks the northern end of the massif that...