Fine, dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire used to be a bit of a misnomer but this is certainly not the case today. Ambitious producers in Anjou, Saumur and Touraine are crafting Chenins with purity and precision as well as the signature of place and the ability to age. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the schistous soils of western Anjou or, as it is known, Anjou Noir.
South...