How to revive the Médoc

According to Anthony Barton, practically the only cru classé owner to actually live in the Médoc, his underperforming neighbours could learn a thing or two from their counterparts in the Languedoc-Roussillon. "A few years ago there was nothing of any interest at all being made down there but they've made real efforts and have improved out of all recognition. Bordeaux should be following their example." (One assumes he refers to the lower ranks in the Médoc and beyond.)

A key factor in the dramatic upgrading of Languedoc wine of course has been the widespread pulling...