Jancis's Austrians – mainly Wachau

L to R: Franz and Matthias Hirtzberger of Wachau in Austria

Current releases from some of the better-known Wachau producers plus two particularly exciting enterprises in Niederösterreich. Julia on Steiermark tomorrow.

I am generally a huge fan of Austrian wines, especially (but not exclusively) Grüner Veltliner, ever since this 2002 blind tasting in which fine, mature Grüner trounced top white burgundy. But I left this year’s generic tasting of Austrian wine in London last February feeling less excited than usual. This was not due to the location. The upper floor of the Science Museum was lighter and less crowded than the usual location in the Institute of Directors (even if the...