One of Bordeaux’s many problems is that there is so much of it – so much for producers to sell and so much for wine lovers to choose from. All those nearly-identical labels and, often, very similar tastes. It’s a relief therefore to be able to recommend a truly distinctive, keenly-priced red bordeaux, in paradigm claret mode.
La Réserve de Léoville Barton 1999 is the St Julien second growth’s second wine but, unlike the many second wines on the retail circuit (many of them on British supermarket shelves at this time of year) it has definite class about it. So many of them are wishy washy but this wine really has got the same firm, classic, entertaining, immaculately-groomed character as the grand vin, and its owner Anthony Barton, but is just a (little) bit smoother and more approachable. You could serve and drink this with confidence (and food – a must) any time over the next four years and, just as important for some hosts, it looks the business. This has a retro recreation of Léoville Barton’s Art Deco label, a welcome change from all those pale imitations of the Lafite label that tend to linger on second (and sometimes first) wine labels.
Of course La Réserve de Léoville Barton 2000 is a more glamorous wine but it is also quite a bit more expensive – in fact 2000’s glamour has probably done its bit to suppress the price of this often-overlooked vintage. Farr Vintners are selling the 1999 by the case in bond for £110 whereas the 2000 is £160. The 1999 price would work out at £12.21 a bottle once VAT and UK excise duty was paid, but bear in mind that Farr is not a retailer and imposes a minimum order value of £500.
Fortunately the wine is widely available by the single bottle. Majestic have it listed at £15.99 but are offering a dramatic £1 off, so £14.99 a bottle, from 01 nov 04 until 31 jan 05, the period during which all their ‘special offers’ operate. Winesearcher.com list £12.63 as the pre-tax per-bottle price of Toulouse-based Rouge & Blanc (www.rouge-blanc.com) while Tanners charge a bit more, £16.40 including all duty and taxes. For once the French discount merchant www.1855.com does not have a particularly low price.
In the US Total Wine & More of New Jersey and North Carolina currently offer it at $16.99 ($19.99 in some other states) while the estimable K&L of San Francisco are offering it at $39.99 per magnificent magnum. Belgian wine merchant Yves Catulle (www.catulle.com) offer it in northern Europe at about 20 euros. The wine is also available in Scandinavia and Canada, according to www.winesearcher.com
Sad how discussion of bordeaux and Bordeaux always boils down to money.
9am, 20 oct: UK bordeaux enthusiasts might be interested to compare La Réserve de Léoville Barton 1999 with the same vintage of a second wine of another St Julien second growth at exactly the same price, also reasonably easy to find. The top 80 or so stores of the newly amalgamated Safeway/Morrisons group should have Sarget de Gruaud Larose 1999 for £14.99. Whereas Léoville Barton's second wine has the grand vin's concentration and rigour, Gruaud Larose's second wine is all soft, sweet, gentle and round, like Gruaud Larose itself. The Sarget is at its peak already whereas the Réserve de Léoville Barton will develop further over the next few years. A lot of the difference comes from the terroir but Gruaud Larose is less than 60 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon whereas Léoville Barton is over 70 per cent and it shows.
Now, off to taste the 2002s….