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London Shell Co trio
Nick on restaurants Wine and fish in Highgate

A winning combination in North London beguiles Nick, who seems to have amused the trio behind it. Above, left to right, Stuart Kilpatrick, Fede Pollame and Harry Lobek. Fish seems...

Vietnamese pho at Med
Nick on restaurants More pho, please

More London restaurants

the interior of a London cafe
Nick on restaurants Of two new London restaurants, Nick chooses to review the bargain option. Above, the interior of Camille. The recent opening...
Ben Warner of benugo
Nick on restaurants A business launched on the quality of its sandwiches. Above, the Ben (Warner) of Benugo. His brother supplied the other...
Moaz Alonim of Chapel Market Kitchen
Nick on restaurants Big, bearded Maoz Alonim has quit Israel for Islington, London. I first met Maoz Alonim seven years ago and in...
Isaac McHale and his mum
Nick on restaurants What six respected chefs learned from their mothers, each pictured below. Above, a young Isaac McHale of The Clove Club...
POTL kitchen
Nick on restaurants Savoury desserts and eye-catching price disparities. I get far too many emails from food and restaurant publicists and I ignore...
Claridge's restaurant
Nick on restaurants A top London hotel has had a makeover, which has been extended to its flagship restaurant. How successfully though? In...
Kolae grill
Nick on restaurants You've really got to be there to enjoy this cuisine; don't take it away. Above, the kitchen at Kolae. It...
Dear Jackie interior
Nick on restaurants Nick considers some eye-opening figures behind the just-released 2024 Michelin guide to UK restaurants and introduces Dear Jackie. These prices...
chef Stuart Andrew at 64 Goodge Street
Nick on restaurants An under-discussed but essential prerequisite to running a successful restaurant. Above, chef Stuart Andrew and his crew finding their groove...
Jincheng Alley exterior
Nick on restaurants Nick gears up for the Year of the Wood Dragon. London's Burgundy Week in January has invariably been a week...
Isaac McHale at The Clove Club
Nick on restaurants The rhythm of the restaurant business, and when it costs to cancel a reservation. This week’s column was to have...
Aldeburgh beach
Nick on restaurants Enoteca Turi has a fabulous wine list; The Lighthouse, a stone’s throw from this Aldeburgh beach, has a fabulous host...
Holly Willcocks at Mountain
Nick on restaurants A bright new flame burns in London's Soho. Fans of Tomos Parry's cooking and grilling no longer need to trek...
Danny Meyer at Shake Shack, West Hollywood
Nick on restaurants In the era of social media and email, restaurateurs have no excuse to lack communication skills. As the late Russell...
Ferran and Nick at Mantua, Jerez
Nick on restaurants A mouth-watering retrospective. Above, a quizzical Ferran Centelles and a thoughtful Nick at Mantúa in Jerez, the one restaurant in...
The Devonshire
Nick on restaurants An ambitious new enterprise in the heart of London. ‘It’s got to be big and it’s got to be central.’...
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