Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Niepoort 2012 Douro Branco

Friday 28 March 2014 • 2 min read
Image

From €5.75, 12.50 Swiss francs, £11.95

Find the 2012 white
Find the 2011 white
Find the 2011 red

I do try not to be repetitive, and I know that I also recommended the 2011 vintage of this wonderful wine as a wine of the week in August 2012. But the sheer quality of the 2012 version of this relatively inexpensive Portuguese white moves me to nominate it as this week's best buy – by a mile.

I actually think there must have been some mistake. The white 2012 is so much more enjoyable than the red 2012 (which I still find rather unfriendly, much preferring the red 2011), I do wonder whether wine that was meant to go into some superior white bottling found its way into this 'entry level' version. The only problem is identifying it. This is the wine so delightfully called Drink Me in the UK, but it has a different name, and different label usually along the lines illustrated here, in virtually every other country, as per the list below.

UK Drink Me
US Twisted
Ireland Sásta
Germany Fabelhaft
Belgium Allez Santé
Holland Gestolen Fiets
Denmark Fantasi
Poland Berek
Estonia Öö ja Päev
Norway Fabelaktig
Finland Sarvet
Sweden Rocky
Spain Alonso Quijano
Portugal Diálogo
Brazil Conversa
South Africa Ubuntu
China Putaoya
Japan Eto carta

The 2012 white was tasting even better earlier this month than it looked last September and here's what I wrote about it: 'Very complex nose – despite the supposed intention of this "casual" wine. Mouthfilling and smoky. Wonderful tension and so juicy! I feel another wine of the week coming on. This is ridiculously good and interesting. A suggestion of laurel leaves. Very appetising but not at all skinny. Hint of shortbread biscuits, too. Only the lack of a really long finish stops me giving this a higher score.'

As is the wont of the Douro's increasingly impressive cohort of white wines, it's a blend of local varieties, in this case mainly Códega do Larinho, Rabigato, Gouveio, Doña Branca, Viosinho and Bical for starters, and the result is just so damned interesting. Full bodied but not fat. Just 13% and with quite enough freshness to make it possible to drink with or without food. The unusually detailed tech spec is here and indicates that the vineyards that supplied this wine were very high – 550-700m altitude – and that a quarter of the wine was aged in oak.

Drink_Me_Branco

If you put 'Niepoort Branco' (branco being Portuguese for white) and '2012' into wine-searcher.com you will find pages of recommended retailers all over Europe. If you know the name of the blend in your particular market then of course you could add that. But for our Find this wine link there is no point in being more specific because of all those different names. It is only once you reach the considerably more expensive Redoma in those price listings that you will have run out of retailers of this wine of the week. There are many UK retailers selling it from £11.95 a bottle, including the online specialist Slurp.co.uk, which is offering it at £12.95.

Unfortunately the 2012s are yet to have reached the US, but American readers can enjoy instead either Niepoort Twisted 2011 Douro Branco, my August 2012 wine of the week, or its delicious red counterpart Niepoort Twisted 2011 Douro Tinto, made in that super-blessed vintage 2011 (see Douro table wines – better than ever).

There are links to buy my three recommended combos below.

Find the 2012 white
Find the 2011 white
Find the 2011 red

Become a member to continue reading
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 288,106 wine reviews & 15,866 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 288,106 wine reviews & 15,866 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 288,106 wine reviews & 15,866 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 288,106 wine reviews & 15,866 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Wines of the week

A bottle of Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc also showing its screwcap top, featuring an alien face
Wines of the week You need to know this guy . From $23.95 or £21 (2023 vintage). Whenever I mention Bonny Doon, the response...
The Chase vineyard of Ministry of Clouds
Wines of the week A perfectly ordinary extraordinary wine. From €19.60, £28.33, $19.99 (direct from the US importer, K&L Wines). A few months ago...
Novus winery at night
Wines of the week A breath of fresh air that’s a perfect antidote to holiday immoderation. Labelled Nasiakos [sic] Mantinia in the US. From...
Albert Canela and Mariona Vendrell of Succes Vinicola.jpg
Wines of the week A rosé to warm your winter, from £17.30, $19.99. Above, Albert Canela and Mariona Vendrell of Succés Vinícola. The wind...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Wild sage in the rocky soils of Cabardès
Tasting articles The keystone of Languedoc viticulture, explored. See also Languedoc whites – looking to the future. ‘Follow me!’ And I do...
the dawn of wine in Normandy
Inside information Turning tides have brought wine back to the edges of north-west France, says Paris-based journalist Chris Howard. This is part...
Nino Barraco
Tasting articles Part 2 of Walter’s in-depth look at the new generation of producers reviving Marsala’s reputation. Above, Nino Barraco, one of...
Francesco Intorcia
Inside information Perpetuo, Ambrato, Altogrado – these ancient styles offer Marsala a way to reclaim its identity as one of Sicily’s vinous...
Meursault in the snow - Jon Wyand
Free for all Everything we’ve published on this challenging vintage. Find all our published wine reviews here. Above, the town of Meursault in...
La Campana in Seville
Nick on restaurants Three more reasons to head to this charming city in southern Spain. As we left Confitería La Campana, which first...
Ch Telmont vineyards and Wine news in 5 logo
Wine news in 5 Plus, Telmont becomes Champagne’s first Regenerative Organic Certified producer, Argentina repeals wine regulations and the EU rules on de-alcoholised wine...
View over vineyards of Madeira sea in background
Free for all But how long will Madeira, one of the great fortified wines, survive tourist development on this extraordinary Atlantic island? A...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.