My blind tasting of 94 2013 Gigondas took place overlooking the pretty little main parking place in the village as workmen savagely lopped the branches off the plane trees there, imposing a wintry look on what was still a remarkably mild autumn scene.
My visit happened to coincide with that of occasional guest contributor Yohan Castaing. As we started our work, Louis Barruol of Château de Ste-Cosme and co-president of the appellation came bounding up the stairs of the Gigondas official organisation’s offices...
