See The archivist of Roussillon for the background to this tasting of some of France's under-appreciated treasures. The picture is of some of the bonbonnes, large glass jars, in which some of the wines are aged, outside in Collioure, at Domaine Piétri Géraud.
Wines are presented in the order tasted.
Deep crimson, port-like colour. Rather simple, brutal flavours. Finishes a bit suddenly.
Healthy ruby with some evolution. Sweet and raisiny but without that much depth.
Pale tawny. Fairly light and fresh. I think this might be a bit too light for the end of the meal. Some bracing, but slight, rancio character. Almost madeira-like. Almonds. Aperitif wine. 16%
Dark blackish tawny. Orange rim. Rancio and treacle. Just a little dry on the end but a lot of power. And refreshment. 17.5%
Slightly lighter and more orange than the 1968. Lots of development. Orange peel and liquorice. Very fresh AND sweet. Smoother than the 1968. Very good. 17.5%
Looks very youthful – more like 2005? Like liquid chocolate-covered plums. Dry tannins on the finish. Still very youthful tasting. 17%
Nuances of ruby colour. A hint of oxidation on the nose. Very lively and fresh and some raisins and dried citrus peel. Nice cool temperature. Very racy. Dry finish. 17%
Pale tawny foxy colour. Quite intense nose despite the colour. Very sweet and flattering. Maybe a bit of Muscat but lots of Grenache Gris. Round but definitely aged. Very good balance of sweetness, acidity, and age. 16%
Mid orangey tawny. Despite the Grenache Noir it's pretty pale. A little simple, boiled sweets on the nose. Hint of almonds and seems a little light. Dry finish. 16%
Bright orangey yellow. Rancio and tangy. Lightish and transparent. Refreshing but not that sweet. Dry finish. Bracing. Foie gras partner? 16%
Very dark, blackish tawny. Intense but possibly just a very little old wood on the nose. But lovely richness and polish. Thick and treacly. Like fermented treacle toffees. 17%
Pale yellow orange. Quite cheesy. Light bodied and strong citrus-peel flavours. Dry finish and somehow like a Sicilian pastry. Chewy. Fun. Quite light bodied.
Very pale coppery tawny. A bit old – old wood on the nose. Sweet and simple. Not the complexity of a madeira but similar style.
Dark greenish tawny. Slightly sugary nose. Some acidity and pretty concentrated on the end. Pretty hard work! But thanks to the sweetness it is less painful than most very old sherries. Demanding. But cleansing.