See The archivist of Roussillon for the background to this tasting of some of France's under-appreciated treasures. The picture is of some of the bonbonnes, large glass jars, in which some of the wines are aged, outside in Collioure, at Domaine Piétri Géraud.
Wines are presented in the order tasted.
Philippe Gayral et Stéphane Gallet, Le Passage 2009 Maury
100% Grenache Noir. Made with friend Stéphane to show they can make a young Maury even if there is hardly any market for it in France. Picked late (beginning of October). Kept in tank, just to show the early stage of these wines.
Deep crimson, port-like colour. Rather simple, brutal flavours. Finishes a bit suddenly.
Deep crimson, port-like colour. Rather simple, brutal flavours. Finishes a bit suddenly.
Drink
2035
–
2060
15
Dom du Duy 1973 Banyuls
100% Grenache Noir. Cousin of Piétri Géraud, same family as the Parc'es. Aged in barriques bordelaises. The estate doesn't exist anymore.
Healthy ruby with some evolution. Sweet and raisiny but without that much depth.
Healthy ruby with some evolution. Sweet and raisiny but without that much depth.
Drink
0
16.5
Ste-Lucie 1971 Rivesaltes
Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Maccabeu, Tourbat. Made with more than 50% white grapes. Malvoisie nearly disappeared in early 1970s.
Pale tawny. Fairly light and fresh. I think this might be a bit too light for the end of the meal. Some bracing, but slight, rancio character. Almost madeira-like. Almonds. Aperitif wine. 16%
Pale tawny. Fairly light and fresh. I think this might be a bit too light for the end of the meal. Some bracing, but slight, rancio character. Almost madeira-like. Almonds. Aperitif wine. 16%
Drink
0
17
Ch Prieuré du Monastir del Camp 1968 Rivesaltes
50% Grenache Noir and 50% white grapes: Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Tourbat. This estate stopped making wine 25 years ago.
Dark blackish tawny. Orange rim. Rancio and treacle. Just a little dry on the end but a lot of power. And refreshment. 17.5%
Dark blackish tawny. Orange rim. Rancio and treacle. Just a little dry on the end but a lot of power. And refreshment. 17.5%
Drink
0
17.5
Ch Prieuré du Monastir del Camp 1966 Rivesaltes
50% Grenache Noir and 50% white grapes: Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Tourbat.
Slightly lighter and more orange than the 1968. Lots of development. Orange peel and liquorice. Very fresh AND sweet. Smoother than the 1968. Very good. 17.5%
Slightly lighter and more orange than the 1968. Lots of development. Orange peel and liquorice. Very fresh AND sweet. Smoother than the 1968. Very good. 17.5%
Drink
0
18
Piétri Géraud 1963 Banyuls
100% Grenache Noir. They still make this but mainly they’re making Collioure.
Looks very youthful – more like 2005? Like liquid chocolate-covered plums. Dry tannins on the finish. Still very youthful tasting. 17%
Looks very youthful – more like 2005? Like liquid chocolate-covered plums. Dry tannins on the finish. Still very youthful tasting. 17%
Drink
0
16
Piétri Géraud 1962 Banyuls
100% Grenache Noir. Still looks quite youthful though with a little more complexity than the 1963. Still tastes undeveloped and a little stringy. Lots of tannin.
Drink
0
16.5
Ste-Barbe 1961 Rivesaltes
1,000 bottles. 70% Grenache Noir, 30% Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, grown on the outskirts of Perpignan. Very traditional. This was one of the best mass-market brands in the old days. Three years outside in glass. He wants oxidation but not rancio. It will probably disappear because of encroachment of the city.
Nuances of ruby colour. A hint of oxidation on the nose. Very lively and fresh and some raisins and dried citrus peel. Nice cool temperature. Very racy. Dry finish. 17%
Nuances of ruby colour. A hint of oxidation on the nose. Very lively and fresh and some raisins and dried citrus peel. Nice cool temperature. Very racy. Dry finish. 17%
Drink
0
18
Dom de Lacresse 1957 Rivesaltes
About 70% white (Maccabeu, Tourbat, Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, some Muscat d’Alexandrie) and 30% Grenache Noir (maybe less?). Terroir of Latour de France, on the way to Maury. Made on a private estate once owned by a founder of Nicolas but the stock was bought by the Estagel co-op.
Pale tawny foxy colour. Quite intense nose despite the colour. Very sweet and flattering. Maybe a bit of Muscat but lots of Grenache Gris. Round but definitely aged. Very good balance of sweetness, acidity, and age. 16%
Pale tawny foxy colour. Quite intense nose despite the colour. Very sweet and flattering. Maybe a bit of Muscat but lots of Grenache Gris. Round but definitely aged. Very good balance of sweetness, acidity, and age. 16%
Drink
0
18
Piétri Géraud 1952 Banyuls
100% Grenache Noir. Mid dark brick with lots of development. Briary with some dark fruits. Sweet and round and a bit simple. A little decay on the end. Not as rich and complete as the 1950. Grainy finish.
17%
Drink
0
17
Piétri Géraud 1950 Banyuls
100% Grenache Noir. Lovely rich dark mahogany. Brick rim. Very lively and rich and complete. Fermented prune juice! Dry lively finish. Tangy. Great stuff.
16%
Drink
0
18.5
Ch Sisqueille 1946 Rivesaltes
Less than 50% Grenache Noir and over 50% white grapes: Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Tourbat.
Mid orangey tawny. Despite the Grenache Noir it's pretty pale. A little simple, boiled sweets on the nose. Hint of almonds and seems a little light. Dry finish. 16%
Mid orangey tawny. Despite the Grenache Noir it's pretty pale. A little simple, boiled sweets on the nose. Hint of almonds and seems a little light. Dry finish. 16%
Drink
0
17
Ch Sisqueille 1944 Rivesaltes
50% or less Grenache Noir and 50% or more white grapes: Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Tourbat.
Bright orangey yellow. Rancio and tangy. Lightish and transparent. Refreshing but not that sweet. Dry finish. Bracing. Foie gras partner? 16%
Bright orangey yellow. Rancio and tangy. Lightish and transparent. Refreshing but not that sweet. Dry finish. Bracing. Foie gras partner? 16%
Drink
0
17
Pla del Fount 1939 Maury
100% Grenache Noir. Extinct domaine just uphill of Mas Amiel.
Very dark, blackish tawny. Intense but possibly just a very little old wood on the nose. But lovely richness and polish. Thick and treacly. Like fermented treacle toffees. 17%
Very dark, blackish tawny. Intense but possibly just a very little old wood on the nose. But lovely richness and polish. Thick and treacly. Like fermented treacle toffees. 17%
Drink
0
17.5
Ch Sisqueille 1936 Rivesaltes
Less than 50% Grenache Noir and more than 50% white grapes: Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Maccabeu, Tourbat.
Pale yellow orange. Quite cheesy. Light bodied and strong citrus-peel flavours. Dry finish and somehow like a Sicilian pastry. Chewy. Fun. Quite light bodied.
Pale yellow orange. Quite cheesy. Light bodied and strong citrus-peel flavours. Dry finish and somehow like a Sicilian pastry. Chewy. Fun. Quite light bodied.
Drink
0
17.5
Ch Mossé 1931 Rivesaltes
70% Grenache Noir and some Grenache Gris with Maccabeu. The only domaine that still exists, and still makes good Rivesaltes.
Very pale coppery tawny. A bit old – old wood on the nose. Sweet and simple. Not the complexity of a madeira but similar style.
Very pale coppery tawny. A bit old – old wood on the nose. Sweet and simple. Not the complexity of a madeira but similar style.
Drink
0
16.5
Ch Sisqueille 1874 Rivesaltes
About 50% Grenache Noir and then maybe some Carignan, some Tourbat, and Maccabeu? Unbottled. This would not have had any other vintage added. The 230-litre barrel is in Philippe's cellar and he will probably bottle in January. Kept because this was the owner's first vintage. One of the main Rivesaltes négociants.
Dark greenish tawny. Slightly sugary nose. Some acidity and pretty concentrated on the end. Pretty hard work! But thanks to the sweetness it is less painful than most very old sherries. Demanding. But cleansing.
Dark greenish tawny. Slightly sugary nose. Some acidity and pretty concentrated on the end. Pretty hard work! But thanks to the sweetness it is less painful than most very old sherries. Demanding. But cleansing.
Drink
0
17