Staglin Family Vineyard 1989-2002

You already know Staglin Family Vineyard and winery in the Napa Valley. It was the super-glitzy one where the most recent Parent Trap was filmed (perfect movie for mothers and daughters). The Staglins were the ones who’d built themselves a vast Italianate villa supposedly modelled on The Godfather who were mocked even more obviously than most participants in Mondovino, the ones who either said, or were edited as though they said, that they graciously gave the Mexican vineyard workers so crucial to their wines’ success a gift each year, something like a baseball cap.

I find it difficult to...