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Sweet and strong assortment

Thursday 27 November 2014
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See Sorting through the assortments for a guide to the collections of tasting notes already published and those yet to come.

More than 70 sweet and strong wines here for our seasonal delectation. An array of great sherries first, then a wide variety of sweet wines of many different strengths, and finally some ports. A collection of tasting notes on mouthwatering madeiras will follow next month.

Within each group, the wines are listed in order of descending score.


SHERRY

White

Young wine from the 2010 vintage but it may well be refreshed in future. Palomino from Sanlucar – exactly the same as Mas Alla but fortified to 18% and aged in 600-litre sherry casks and more recently in Bordeaux casks.
Pale brassy colour. Very umami on the nose! Vibrant and rich and super-tangy. Fabuloso. Rich yet lively and bone dry on the end. Real energy. (JR)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2014 – 2019
Price: £49 RRP
White

Deep gold. Really tangy and with wonderful depth. Bone dry and very firm. Long and serious. (JR)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £27 RRP
White

Best dry fortified, Wines From Spain Awards 2014.
Toasted nuts, acrid smokiness, expansive complexity on the palate and huge persistence. Incredibly savoury, with tons of umami character. Quite incredible length. (RH)

Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £14.95 The Wine Society
White

Bottled Oct 2013 from Perez Barquero. PX not Palomino and probably unfortified. About 20 years old.
Dark copper. Really tangy nose. Notably fruity nose. Broad and very fresh. Wonderfully earthy. Mushroomy. I’d love to drink this with a savoury dish with a creamy mushroom sauce. (JR)

Alcohol: 15.5%
Drink: 2013 – 2018
Price: £42
 RRP
White

Saca of March 2014. Not yet on sale in the UK yet but should be from Feb next year. It’s a Fino in answer to the I Think Manzanilla bottling for Bibendum, Australia!
Really impressive on the nose. Lovely balance. Limpid and salty. Really lovely and perfectly balanced. Firm and fine. Solid and salty. (JR)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £11.50 37.5cl RRP
White

Much more convincing than their Fino: complex, rich, nutty, caramelised character. Full, almost heavy body. Long spiced finish. Big and bold and very satisfying. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: RRP £17.55
White

Raisins, roasted nuts, prunes. Potent, concentrated, chewy. Very salty and intense – a great, uncompromising Oloroso. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
White

Average 20 years old. Pale orange. Toffee nose with a strong green streak. Pungent and rancio and a silly low price. So clean. But I suspect the supermarkets are challenging it with even lower prices for old wine.

(JR)
Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £23 for 50 cl The Wine Society
White

Pale yellow tawny. Very clean and fresh. Super pure. Nutty. Bring on the nuts and cheese! So pure. GV (JR)

Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £19.95 per 50 cl Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Best own label fortified, Wines From Spain Awards 2014.
Salty, dried mushrooms, dried fruits, bitter chocolate. Yeasty and fiercely dry, but no less drinkable for that. (RH)

Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2013 – 2017
Price: £9.75 Waitrose
White

Minty, saline, herbal, fennel, rich and broad and fungal. Really great – deep and long but retaining lightness. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £39.99 per magnum RRP
White

Chunky, dense, saline. Loaded with dried, figgy fruit. Thick, rich, satisfying. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £71.98 RRP
White

Viscous, thick, salty, almost searing. Impressive but overbearring. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £36.50 RRP
White

From the cask on the end. Pale greenish tawny. Sweetish hint on the nose. Then hugely tart on the palate but less demanding. Essence and hard work. (JR)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £90 37.5cl RRP
White

Saline, iodine and dried nuts – very serious and boldly flavoured. Spot on in terms of style, and with loads of satisfying, dry persistence. VGV (RH)

Alcohol: 19%
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £9.75 Waitrose
White

Saca of October, 2010.
 Deep coppery colour. Lots of evolution – very different on the nose – and actually tastes as though it had a bit of oak age! Full and satisfying with just as much refreshment as the 2014 bottling but with less freshness. You could love this with food. Whereas the 2014 bottling is an aperitif wine. (JR)

Drink: 2010 – 2015
White

Saca of October, 2014. Just arrived. Latest release of something that started with the 2010 release intended for Oddbins initially. Sells very well in the US and Australia. Pale. Lots of tang and then like a feather brushing the palate. Lightly nutty and flattering. Probably about four years average. Bone dry and yet revitalizing. Very, very clean. Bone dry. (JR)

Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £11.50 per half RRP
White

Pedro Ximénez from Perez Barquero. Maybe 25-30 years. Deep lustrous golden tawny. Just a little syrupy on the nose. It’s easier to see that this is Pedro Ximénez. Vibrant but a little bit heavy underneath.

(JR)
Alcohol: 20.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £49 RRP
White

Milder than their Amontillado, but no less complex – nutty, dried fruits, dried mushroom, salt. A remarkable amount of flavour for under ten pounds. (RH)

Alcohol: 19%
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £9.75 Waitrose
White

Gentle, layered textured, chewy. Subtle but not thin. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £18.48 RRP
White

This is from a cask you’re not allowed in – with padlock! Comes from a stock that was forgotten about. Greenish brownish mid tawny. Rancio nose. Super tangy fragilistic. Quite extreme and extraordinary. Hard work! Should be an ingredient rather than a wine, I feel. Fruit left this long ago… For interest only. (JR)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £90 37.5cl RRP
White

Nutty, doughy, raisined with some charry, smoky character. A little bit loose on the finish – dusty and almost sour. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £11.49 RRP
White

Pure apple fruit, gentle palate, soft and easy drinking. Beginner's sherry – nothing wrong with that! (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £12.99 RRP
White

Delicate, spicy, soft, rounded. Good, classically styled stuff. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: RRP £36.50
White

Best dry fortified, Wines From Spain Awards 2014.
Classic, unmistakable salted nut character and green apple. Finishes with that mushroom funkiness so typical of Sherry. (RH)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £11.83 Corks of Cotham, Woodwinters, Worth Brothers Wines
White

Dry, smooth, quite tart. Pretty dilute – somewhat unsatisfying finish. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £14.65 RRP
White

Organic. Elegant tall bottle and attractive pale orange colour and some rancio notes on the nose but a little soft, raisiny and dull on the palate. Not expensive but not thrilling. (JR)

Alcohol: 16.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £8.99 per half Majestic
White

Pretty one-dimensional palate, brief finish. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £15.35 RRP
White

Somewhat subdued nose: bitter, sour, almost citric. Has an almost emetic sourness. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2017
White

Subtle, floral, semi-sour. Perfectly nice if a little simple. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £38.50 RRP
White

Compact, bready, a little salty, fine and refreshing – but a tad short. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2015
White

Rich, thick, demerara sugar, milky coffee and caramel. All sugar of course, but it just about gets away with it somehow. (RH)

Alcohol: 15%
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £6.95 Great Western Wine, Blanco & Gomez, Framlingham Wine Shop
White

Rich and scented but also TCA tainted, it seems. Dirty barrels? Certainly infected by something somewhere along the line. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2016

SWEET

White

White currant, leafy, lots of character on the nose already! (JR)

Drink: 2014 – 2040
Price: £270 per case of 6 Justerini & Brooks
White

Honey, marmalade, lemon juice. Sumptuous, indulgent, exotic and thoroughly delicious. Crystallised ginger, floral character, citrus peel. Great length. And miraculously fresh on the finish. Masterful. (RH)

Drink: 2014 – 2024
White

Deep orange tawny. Apricot syrup. (JR)

Drink: 2008 – 2018
Price: £575 per case of 12 halves Justerini & Brooks
White

Not much Gewurztraminer aromatic identity on the nose. Mint, caramel and orange marmalade on the palate – thick but not heavy, somehow – a lovely trick! No oxidative character at all, incredible length and beautiful fragrance. (RH)

Drink: 1999 – 2019
White

Sun-dried Moscatel de Alexandria, six months in French oak. Deep burnished gold. Intensely aromatic – marmalade, bitter orange and caramelised apricot. Still manages to be fragrant even though it is so intense. Super sweet and tangy but complex too – the oak is in the background giving just a touch of spice. Very long and delicious with an aftertaste of honeyed apricots. (JH)

Drink: 2012 – 2017
White

Racy with definite botrytis. Spritz. Very fresh and light. Very racy. Filigree with still some chew. (JR)

Drink: 2010 – 2030
Price: £220 per case of 12 Justerini & Brooks
White

Late harvest. Marmalade, lime curd, caramelised nuts and a heavenly, fabulous succulence. Just a touch of vegetal character to finish. Wonderful! (RH)

Alcohol: 11%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £22 per 50 cl Theatre of Wine
White

Petrol and oil – the very picture of mature Riesling, and seems much more like Mosel than Alsace on the nose. Some charming sweetness on the palate, but it’s not luscious. Honeyed fruits with allspice and a little grapefruit freshness to finish. (RH)

Drink: 2004 – 2020
White

RS 200 g/l, approximately.Rich gold. Minty, marmalade, ginger. Really sweet and very unctuous. Superb richness and texture; superb volume of flavour. I’d actually like to see a little more new oak here, for even more complexity. (RH)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2012 – 2018
White

Pale gold. Intense and inviting aroma of very ripe apricots plus pineapple and a note of honey. Gewürztraminer's classic rose-like perfume is just discernible, more so on the palate, but the botrytis apricot and orange dominate. Some delicate almond character too. Unctuous and deeply sweet but with the acidity to keep it balanced. Viscous without being heavy. Delicious and with the potential to age further. (JH)


Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2013 – 2017
White

Golden orange colour. Unusual nose: chamomile, hay and apricots. Honeyed and gorgeous on the palate. I'd love to try this with some hard cheeses. Silky texture, viscous but no heaviness. GV (JH)

Alcohol: 10%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £16.50 per 50 cl Stone, Vine & Sun
White

Bergerac blend of botrytised Muscadelle, Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Round, golden and very sweet without masses of acidity but at its peak and deliverer of huge pleasure. At its peak now. GV (JR)

Alcohol: 11.5%
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Price: £24.99 per 50cl Handford
White

Deep gold. Aromas of stewed – reduced to intensity – apricot, tangy marmalade, and similarly intense and tangy on the palate, with very good freshness and a gently warming finish. Delicious and finely made. (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2014 – 2014
Price: £17.95 Berry Bros & Rudd
White

Lots of fun, almond essence and freshness. I think any household would wallop this over Christmas. So bright. Maybe it is walnuts…?! (JR)

Alcohol: 18%
Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £25 The Wine Society
Red

100% Merlot. First vintage 2009. They wanted to make a wine that would go with chocolate. Bought-in fruit. Sun-dried grapes (rather than late harvest) so that the acidity was retained. 4 months in French oak – 1 to 2 years old. 15-18 days' ferment. RS 115 g/l RS.
Aroma of orange and spice and doesn't really smell sweet. Very slight hint of raisins. Nice dry tannins to keep it dry with sweet cherry in the middle. Cherries and fig. Works with game and with chocolate figs, apparently. Very good and definitely a food wine thanks to the tannins.

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2016
White

Pale orange and relatively low in acidity but with lots of depth, richness and complexity. Cheese, please! But this is really a candidate for the cellar rather than the table for the moment. (JR)

Drink: 2016 – 2034
Price: £65 Handford
Red

Deep purple-crimson. Perfumed and rich. Wild dark berries and cassis, with sage and juniper notes looming up on the finish. Real tang and intensity, despite the opulent sweetness of the wine. A purple explosion! Really quite delicious and a rather good lower-alcohol alternative to port. (TC)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2013 – 2022
Red

Pale strawberry red. Heady raspberry pop on the nose. Almost smells syrupy. Very sweet and frothy. Like liquidised strawberry mousse. Not astringent but a real challenge for food matching because it is too light for most sweet foods. Just sliced strawberries? A curiosity… (JR)

Alcohol: 6.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £13.41 The Sampler
White

Not 100% clean and fresh but with great sweet apricot compote fruit. Very sweet. At the end of a meal people may not notice the lack of 100% purity. GV (JR)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2017
Price: £12.95 per 50 cl Lea & Sandeman
White

'Muffa nobile' means noble rot. The Calcaia vineyard has a particular microclimate which means that it is affected by thick fog on autumn mornings.They harvest five or six times during November and December, with a very long slow fermentation. Grechetto, Trebbiano Procanico, Sauvignon Blanc.
Pale amber and smells of marmalade. Surprisingly light on the palate, layers of clementine peel, white currants and honeybush tea. Lots of orange. A slight hole towards the finish, but it would be great with a slice of lemon drizzle cake! (TC)

Alcohol: 10.5%
Drink: 2013 – 2016
Price: £20 The Wine Society
White

Honeyed apricots. Rich, juicy, sweet and finely balanced. There's a slight grip to enhance its food friendliness. GV (JH)

Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £12.50 Stone, Vine & Sun
White

Semillon and Gewurz blend. Much, much richer and more convincing than the 2013. Deep-flavoured even if far from subtle. A little sticky but the balance is ok. (JR)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £8.95 per half from various independents
White

Picked at -7 ° C. RS 210 g/l. Rich and sweet but a bit thick and jagged. Sherbet elixir.

(JR)
Alcohol: 10.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £16.99 per half Adnams
White

Pale gold. Toasty, floral, Very sweet but not very deep-flavoured. Just a bit simple. I can't really see the grace of Petit Manseng here. (JR)

Alcohol: 11%
Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £12 per 50 cl Cambridge Wine Merchants, Thomas Peatling
White

100% Moscato Bianco. 12 months in stainless steel. TA 5.6 g/l, RS 140 g/l. In a 500 ml bottle.
Pale amber. Lusciousness balloons out of the glass, peach and plum dripping with honey. Tastes not unlike a teaspoon of liquid apricot jam. Very rich and a lovely expression of fruit, but it does seem to lack a bit of acidity, giving it a somewhat cloying finish. You'd tire of this after a very small glass. (TC)

Alcohol: 10.5%
Drink: 2012 – 2015
White

Golden, scented with barley sugar and almond paste. Fat on the palate and lacks freshness to balance. (JH)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2020
Price: £16.50 per half Stone, Vine & Sun
White

(JR)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £8.95 per half from various independents
White

Screwcapped half bottle. Rather tired nose and watery on the palate. Where's the Chenin cut? Light toastiness but pretty dull really. (JR)

Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £9.99 The Vineyard of Dorking, Sheridan Coopers
White

Best sweet wine, Wines From Spain Awards 2014.
Not hugely sweet, not hugely interesting either. Good acidic freshness, but precious little complexity. (RH)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2013 – 2015
Price: £17.03 Buon Vino, Noel Young Wines, Philip Pruden Wines
White

Light and crisp and floral. Lacks intensity. Just (quite) sweet and simple. Fast fade. (JR)

Alcohol: 12.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2015
Price: £8.95 per half from various independents
Red

A blend of Grenache, Mataro and Shiraz. Matured in a solera.
Pecan brown. Not unlike an Oloroso on the nose – more so than a tawny port. Gingerbread and toasted coconut and almonds. A spicy savoury nose that reminds me of sawmills and old furniture shops. Molasses and cola, dried figs, more coconut and cedar spice. Layered and just as savoury tasting as it smells despite that fig-syrup note and the rich slow texture. Clean finish. Very well made! (TC)

Alcohol: 19%
Drink: 2014 – 2025
White

Quite luscious and almondy but still a little astringent. Baked-apple character. (JR)

Alcohol: 12%
Drink: 2015 – 2023
Price: £15.95 Yapp Brothers
White

Not much nose but fabulous balance of tang, acidity and sweetness. Foie gras wine? So direct and revitalising. VGV (JR)

Alcohol: 13.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2016
Price: £14.95 Yapp Brothers

PORT

Red

Pretty sweet, rosy tawny colour with more depth than Graham's and Taylor's 20 Year Olds. Great depth and toffee and real age. Sumptuous, complex. (JR)

Alcohol: 20.5%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £40 The Wine Society
Red

Frosted bottle. Vegy, savoury, not that sweet and refined. Lots of fun. Silky smooth. (JR)

Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £34 The Wine Society
Red

Seems a little raw after three 20 Year Old Tawnys! But correct and very fine. Sinewy and with great integrity, but quite dry. (JR)

Alcohol: 20.5%
Drink: 2017 – 2035
Price: £36 The Wine Society
Red

Squat bottle. Nutty and very sweet. Tart and lively and fresh. Almost raw! (JR)

Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2016 – 2020
Price: £37 The Wine Society
Red

Bricky colour. Spirity on the nose. Full of lovely tawny flavours – plums, spice, but a little bit hard on the finish. (JH)

Alcohol: 20%
Drink: 2014 – 2018
Price: £17.50 per 50 cl Stone, Vine & Sun
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