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  • Nick Lander
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  • Nick Lander
28 Nov 2011

By 1 pm on the first day of San Sebastian Gastronomika, one of the most enthusiastically attended of all the world's growing number of gastronomic conferences, I had smelt, studied and tasted more gin and tonics than I have drunk in the last 17 years.

I can say this with impunity as the arithmetic is simple. I enjoy one gin…