Wherever you stand in the Great Southern region, the landscape undulates concentrically away. Under such vast skies the distant horizon looks flat, but up close you can see how the earth buckles and folds like an unruly rug. It’s ancient, sparse land, a final frontier before the frigid ocean that spills down to Antarctica.
It’s also wine country, surely the most unexplored in Australia, hundreds of miles south of the world’s remotest major city, Perth. Discovering the wines is like unlocking a secret level in...