The other side of Marlborough


The last time I visited Marlborough, in 2009, the region had experienced two large vintages in a row and winemakers were nervous. Grape prices were falling; unsold wine was mounting up in tanks and warehouses. It felt like New Zealand was in danger of heading down the same path towards oversupply and brand devaluation as Australia had a few short years before.

Turns out it was only a hiccup.

I went back to Marlborough last month and was surprised to find the wine business there still expanding – albeit at a far less frantic pace than the early 2000s. Clearly...