What to drink in 2004

At the first of the frenzy of Burgundy 2002 tastings currently being held in London by wine merchants anxious to make up the shortfall engendered by the market's lukewarm reception of Bordeaux's 2002s, I was bearded by a reader who has just retired from London financial world and clearly has some wine drinking time on his hands.

"I don't want to read about Tesco," he began somewhat testily – and rather unnecessarily in my view since I mentioned the supermarket that sells about a quarter of all wine retailed in Britain a mere eight times in my recent four-week survey...