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  • Max Allen
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  • Max Allen
26 Feb 2014

'Dad thinks we're a bunch of f*ck'n' hippies', smiles Ben Paxton through his bushranger beard as he pours me a taste of his family vineyard's biodynamically grown, sulphur-free McLaren Vale Pinot Gris.

We're at Rootstock, the lively natural wine fair that took place in Sydney earlier this month: 65 producers from around…