When ocker meets organic

'Dad thinks we're a bunch of f*ck'n' hippies', smiles Ben Paxton through his bushranger beard as he pours me a taste of his family vineyard's biodynamically grown, sulphur-free McLaren Vale Pinot Gris.

We're at Rootstock, the lively natural wine fair that took place in Sydney earlier this month: 65 producers from around Australia and the world pouring a dazzling array of organic, biodynamic, minimal-additive wines. Think the Real Wine Fair or RAW Down Under.

Ben's dad is David Paxton, one of Australia's most commercially minded, large-scale veteran grape growers – the last bloke, in other words, you'd expect to be...