Alsace reflections

Bitter and fat. These are not words I normally expect winemakers to pronounce with pride when discussing their wines, and they are not words I’d have automatically associated with Alsace wines. But they cropped up so often on my recent trip to Alsace that I wrote them in capital letters across the much-crumpled printout of my schedule on the plane on the way home. They’d got me thinking about the way we see wine and, in particular, how wine producers from...