Amarone – can quality be maintained?

See tasting notes on 2005 Amarones by the score

To judge by production and sales statistics, the Veneto's richest red, Amarone, seems, at least for now, to be surviving the various crises described in Angelo Gaja’s recent article. 

Total production of grapes in the Valpolicella region continues to rise, reaching 71.8 million kg in 2008, with a value of 90 million euros; grape production specifically directed to Amarone and its sweet ‘father’ Recioto has risen to 29.8 million kg, and bottles of Amarone sold has reached an all-time high – more than 5.5 million bottles in 2008. However, last...