California's charming 2007 Cabs

It is rare for California to have a mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon crop. Typical abundant sunshine, high summer temperatures and absence of rain during the growing season usually guarantee ripeness (and overripeness for some, who intentionally let the grapes hang too long, resulting in high alcohol levels and loss of varietal character in the finished wines).

Yet in 2007, consistently moderate temperatures, an unusually cool September, and lack of California's famous heat waves – which can send temperatures skyrocketing to as high as 105 °F/41 °C for days at a time in July through September – provided a near-perfect vintage, with...