Latest Riesling GGs – Nahe, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Pfalz

On the nose the Felsenberg still shows restraint with gentle notes of citrus and a fine herbal nuance, but the palate is already far more generous with the expression of juicy yellow fruit, embedded in a creamy texture and not without a delicate touch of residual sugar. (MS)

In the old pre-Dönnhoff days, the Krötenpfuhl was almost exclusively used for the production of noble sweet wines and there still is enough fruit today to remind one of that tradition. Ripe aromas of yellow plum, peach and apricot find congenial partners in an almost rocky minerality, as well as fresh garden herbs led by fennel, to stimulate the palate. Maybe a little less intense but more relaxed than its GG siblings from the same stable. (MS)

Absolutely pure on the nose with cool minerality, the fragrance of local orchards and herbes de Provence. Crystal clear on the palate, where almost austere salty elements take the sensory centre stage, but still leave enough room for delicate nuances of stone fruit and herbal spice to express themselves. (MS)

Very reserved on the nose, but there are promising signs of an exquisite composition of stone fruit, delicate spices and a fine herbal note, which on the palate is completed by a tasteful salty expression. If it did not sound condescending, I would call it the softie among Dönnhoff’s Grosse Gewächse. (MS)

This could be Dönnhoff’s crowd-pleaser Grosses Gewächs but from a monopoly site of just 1 ha, it’s always put up for auction at prices which don’t please the crowds. The grapes are given a little more hang time to ripen, resulting in a sumptuous fragrance of ripe yellow fruit, floral niceties and even a hint of honey. Crystal clear on the palate with oodles of fruit, supple texture, great power and body, yet still incredibly fresh. Helmut Dönnhoff calls it baroque. (MS)

The soil at the Mühlenberg is variegated sandstone which, in my limited experience, seems to express itself in extra complexity and diversity of aromas. The 2020 Grosses Gewächs starts off with a delightful expression of fresh yellow fruit, which is perfectly complemented by a crisp appley acidity as well as cool stony and salty mineral nuances. A gentle floral element softens the impact and puts an appealing seductive spin on the finish. (MS)

The Felsentürmchen is nowhere near ready yet. Neither will it ever be a crowd-pleaser. Grandseigneur Helmut himself called it masculine, which must not be interpreted as for men only. It’s rock hard though, encapsulating the pristine purity of minerality. It’s the end of my journey in search of the holy grail of dry Riesling. I always knew it had to be austere, craggy and rugged. (MS)

Auction wine.
Located just above the Halenberg, the very old vines of the Auf der Ley produce this most prestigious of the estate’s Grosse Gewächse in a minuscule quantity only offered at auction. The nose does not try to overwhelm with exuberance but fascinates with a perfect harmony of fruit, minerality and herbal diversity instead. On the palate the tactile salty expression of minerality does take centre stage, but is well supported by notes of peach and grapefruit as well as a herbal tangent. Compact and chewy at the moment, this wine is designed for the long term. (MS)

The Nahe is not a mountain stream, but it might be for all we know with Schönleber’s Frühlingsplätzchen’s cool and pure mineral expression, aptly complemented by a gentle herbal freshness. The crushed juicy herbs also appear first on the palate with the stony mineral elements a little slower to establish their authority on the finish. (MS)

The nose has almost more spiritual than aromatic presence. On second inhalation some gentle notes of mineral, fruity but mainly herbal components can be found. On the palate there’s an injection of fresh spearmint which really cools the taste buds, before the mandatory mineral dust puts a more tactile touch on the finish. Fruit may not be most prominent, but it’s there with grapefruit piquancy and peach-stone holding the fort. (MS)

Restrained fruity fragrance ranges from aromas of peach to even a hint of orange, with the merest sprinkling of mineral dust. On the palate a little softer than the Felsenberg, but with plenty of animation provided by the taste of grapefruit, lemon peel and lemony acidity. (MS)

The other delayed Réserve from the monopoly Hermannsberg is nowhere near as petrolly as the Kupfergrube, wearing its maturity well with just a slight aroma of waxy apple peel. It also appears fresher on the palate and less bitter, with notes of grapefruit and lemon curd served on a creamy texture. A salty finish adds coolness and complexity. (MS)

Quite shy on the nose with just delicate sprinklings of mineral dust. Initially quite broad and creamy on the palate, until crunchy peach, grapefruit and a touch of bitter lemon put some bite into the taste. A hint of almond kernel together with a delicate mineral notion add further interest to the finish. (MS)

Truly animating fragrance in which sprightly citrus fruit, cool minerality and fresh herbal aromas share the spoils. With its compact structure, uncompromising mineral grip and lemony acidity it does not aim to be an early crowd-pleaser, but a long-term prospect. (MS)

The Kupfergrube is one of two Grosse Gewächse of which Gut Hermannsberg release a Réserve wine, five years after the vintage. To me personally the Kupfergrube is not an unmitigated success. There is already a little more kerosene than I find tasteful, although aromas of marzipan, baked apple and lemon curd may be the saving grace to the noses of others. Grapefruit has begun to shrivel for me on the palate, although a sprinkling of almonds add a nutty deflection. All of a rich texture is needed to absorb a rocky minerality. Though my young co-tasters and my wife had no complaints. (MS)

The Bastei 2019 demonstrates what a year’s bottle-age can do for the complexity of a wine but credit probably also has to go to the very special terroir of red rock rubble. The result is a fine fragrance of spring flowers, stone fruit, a smidgeon of spice and hint of wet pebble. The taste starts off with friendly fruit, before saline minerality and lemony acidity begin to make an impact. Dry and a little dusty, but there’s enough juice to avoid austerity. (MS)

An enchanting fragrance combines aromas of spring flowers, ripe apple, peach and an intriguing nuance of ginger. Quite soft and approachable on the palate. Acidity takes a back seat and leaves the sensory stage to juicy fruit and a hint of spice, well embedded in a luscious texture. (MS)

The wild and funky fragrance of freshly crushed herbs is the signature tune of both site and maker and pronounced notes of green mint and parsley don’t disappoint. There is a cool freshness about the flavour, which almost cuts the palate. It’s the sappy and zingy taste of freshly crushed greens, supported by the mineral association of wet pebbles, which refreshes the parts other Grosse Gewächse can’t reach. (MS)

Maybe Tim Fröhlich will be horrified when I mention fresh spinach, but the fragrance is in the best possible taste, a fresh leafy expression before being cooked. On the palate this is extremely juicy but also with a kind of mineral astringency that draws in the cheeks and makes the mouth water. One could be persuaded to drink this now, although it would be sacrilege. (MS)

One has to work hard to work out the individual character of a site in Tim Frohlich’s very young Grosse Gewächse as they all tend to be close to each other in their wild herbal exuberance, but I seem to detect an individual interpretation in the Frühlingsplätzchen, with aromas of sage and mint. Relatively speaking, on the palate the wine appears almost a little lighter and softer than some of its siblings, even grapefruit gets a look-in with a refreshing citrusy quality. (MS)

This may be different territory or terroir from Bockenau but the signature tune of spontaneous fermentation remains with a smell of freshly crushed green herbs. The palate plays a (slightly) different tune with a more generous quality of herbal juices, but rocky minerality is never far and takes over centre stage on the finish. (MS)

You could call the Pittermännchen a bit of a stinker at this infant stage, as the vegetal and fumy aromas released by the natural yeast are quite funky. On the palate the young wine is quite schizophrenic too in its way, fresh and juicy on one side, taut and with phenolic grip on the other. It certainly has the substance and tension to promise great potential. (MS)

The nose enchants with a delightful composition of spring blossom and the ripe fruit of local orchards. This alliance is successfully transposed onto the palate and supplemented by a clean notion of earthy minerality. There’s plenty of juice too, but acidity seems to have lost its way a little. More on the sumptuous than vibrant side. (MS)

Almost pungent but by no means unpleasant fragrance of freshly rained-on nettles and a sprig of mint, revealing the influence of ambient yeast on the olfactory expression of the Baron’s Hohenrain. Herbs are all the rage on the palate, fresh and green to start with, but with dried savoury notes on the finish. (MS)

One should always be prepared for surprises and Barth’s Hassel certainly managed that with a quite complex composition of fresh local fruit, cool minerality, fine spices and lively acidity. What makes it special though is an idiosyncratic mix of phenolic astringency and a smidgeon of residual sugar. You will have to be a bit patient before it all comes together, but it should be worth the wait. (MS)

Yellow fruit and wet pebbles combine ripe and cool elements on the nose. Quite slender on the palate with a refreshingly cool expression of minerality, but also a gentle nuance of ripe yellow fruit. Charming. (MS)

A fresh fragrance enchants with aromas of stone fruit and a hint of spice. The taste starts off with a fleshy dash of apricot before a marked minerality makes its presence felt with an almost gritty feel to it. Quite tactile phenolics on the finish too. Will need a little time to soften. (MS)

A little perfumed on the nose with aromas of stone fruit and the merest hint of fresh herbs. Despite promising hell (Hölle), the pleasant expression of stone fruit on the palate is actually embedded in quite a soft texture. Quite full bodied too. (MS)

Eser’s Wisselbrunnen may be traditional Rheingau Riesling but there’s nothing old-fashioned about its aromatic presentation of local fruit, from pear to peach, augmented by a cool nuance of Glacier mints. Juicy and fresh on the palate with a generous amount of ripe fruit. A wine meant to be drunk, not to be sipped. (MS)

If the Wisselbrunnen represents Eser’s classic interpretation of dry Rheingau Riesling, the Doosberg is a little bit on the racier side. The fruit is more citrusy than local and although the fragrance is still a little restrained, it nevertheless puts the emphasis on freshness rather than opulent ripeness. This can also be said about the taste, where zesty grapefruit and invigorating acidity come together for a vibrant sensory experience. (MS)

Quite wild and funky on the nose with pronounced aromas of crushed mint and parsley. On the palate the input of minerality seems to emphasise the crunchy side in the flavour of gooseberry and sorrel. (MS)

Although the nose is still a little funky from bottle shock, the fruit is fresh and well supported by precise acidity and fine spicy notion on the palate. A phenolic backbone indicates long-term potential. Carries the promise of elegance. (MS)

Clean and clear on the nose with a cool aura of minerality, which is well complemented by the fragrance of local orchards and fine herbal aromas exuding Mediterranean flair. Pure and precise on the palate with a marked salty flavour, but stone fruit and a subtle composition of medicinal herbs and spices also get a look-in. (MS)

Spontaneous fermentation and 16 months on the lees have produced a composition of truly concentrated fruit and powerful minerality, which still leaves room for fine nuances of spring blossom, herbal freshness and even a distinctive notion of wood-ageing. I have never been a fan of coconut or vanilla in Riesling and although it’s most tastefully done here, I am reminded of Cicero’s ceterum censeo … but it’s still a fantastic wine. (MS)

A pleasant aromatic fragrance of stone fruit and a hint of herb garden flatter the olfactory perception. On the palate the wine is not ostentatious in its presentation of apricot fruit with a slight herbal sprinkling but shows good structure, with a hardly noticeable spicy note of wood-ageing. Elegant type of Grosses Gewächs. (MS)

Fred Prinz’s Jungfer does not seek its salvation in fruit exuberance but presents an intriguing combination of herbs and spices in an almost subdued fashion. On the palate peppery notes and even a hint of ginger put plenty of fresh spice into the taste and a subtle dash of wet pebbles adds mineral connotations to the finish. (MS)

Ress’s Nussbrunnen is not a daredevil trying to break the mould of dry Rheingau Riesling. It upholds the traditional values of ripe fruit, reserved minerality, generous juice and full body and manages to put all those qualities across in a fresh and animating fashion. (MS)

The Silberlack exhibits a delicate rather than exuberant fragrance in which aromas of citrus fruit and peach are accompanied by a subtle mineral expression. On the palate the wine has managed to retain enough acidity to support the refreshing expression of sweet lemon and grapefruit. A marked salty tang adds further vibrancy. Quite cool and understated which only serves to emphasise the wine’s elegance. (MS)

Schloss Vollrads stands for tradition but that doesn’t mean mothballs. The fruit is ripe and clean, reflecting the generosity of the vintage. On the palate apricot and peach take on a slightly sweet slant, but the residual sugar is well integrated into a truly juicy expression and a fine mineral accent adds further interest. (MS)

Notes of butterscotch and caramel please (almost) all tastes, although I prefer them in a pack of Werther’s Originals. Nevertheless, they have entered an attractive alliance with the ripe fruit of 2018 and a well-executed presentation of salty minerality, which enhances the fuller figure. (MS)

A generous fragrance does not only feature ripe yellow fruit but also reveals that the Gräfenberg has been kissed by wood. Quite broad and creamy on the palate, no doubt because the wine spent a prolonged time on its lees, but spontaneous herbal notes bring freshness and a phenolic kick-back structure to the finish. Considerable extract promises long-term potential. (MS)

Still trying to find its way between a creamy texture produced by 11 months on its full lees and a more assertive phenolic contribution, the edges of which are bound to be smoothed by time. There’s enough fruit with bitter-sweet grapefruit and juicy peach to fill the gaps. Slender and fresh. (MS)

A delightful fragrance exhibits apple in all its facets, from blossom to fruit and even fresh peel. Very fresh and highly aromatic on the palate, starting off almost softly, but developing quite a bit of bite as the flavour develops. A fine spicy expression adds value to the finish. A bonnie baby bound to become a charmer. (MS)

Very fresh on the nose with freshly sliced lemon, lemongrass, a hint of chalk and the aura of a cool mountain stream. Grapefruit including flesh and pith on the palate, with a shot of lemony acidity and dotted with eensy-weensy herbal and mineral nuances. Very invigorating style of Grosses Gewächs. (MS)

Friedrich Groebe’s Kirchspiel flatters the nose with a fragrance of ripe yellow fruit, animating citrus fruit and just a hint of icing sugar. The flavour shows plenty of substance which, with its fruity content and elegant residual sweetness, soothes rather than challenges the taste buds. Minerality may not push for a central role but puts its very own stamp on the finish with a subtle smoky notion. (MS)

Auction wine.
Delicate aromas of pine, rosemary and lavender put a fragrant spin of aromas of the garrigue on the nose of the Fenchelberg. Herbes de Provence also take centre stage on the palate. The acidity seems rather soft, which will please those who are not looking for too much tension in their Riesling Grosses Gewächs. (MS)

The hotter vintages have slightly changed the character of the Hubacker. I still remember it as a leaner wine, whereas today it has become a little more generous in terms of fruit, even adding gentle exotic touches to the local peach, pear and apple. Fine nuances of spice and wet pebble add complexity. But as always Klaus Peter Keller manages to get plenty of tension and vibrancy into the finish. (MS)

Once a site famous for its noble sweet wines, the Pettenthal has become the great discovery of the German Grosse Gewächse scene. Only available in very limited quantities, it has become the darling of the auction bidders but also of many wine critics, who can’t afford to buy it. Coming from a different district and terroir than KP’s other GGs, it’s not (much) better but different. Mineral and herbal aromas take more of a back seat and are happy just to support the more prominent floral and fruity expression. But it would not be Klaus Peter if he just left it at the initial generosity of ripe sweet yellow fruit served on a rich texture. Lemon receives a dab of honey, grapefruit shines with vibrant acidity, a hint of bitter orange adds piquancy. The final piece of the puzzle is supplied by a dynamic mineral energy. (MS)

Cool and purist on the nose with aromas of freshly crushed green mint, even a hint of parsley and a fine mineral notion. Contrary to the Kirchspiel, the Abts E actually seems to relax a little more on the palate, putting fresh herbal flavours slightly ahead of the stony and salty components of minerality. Stone fruit makes an appearance too and an eensy-weensy nuance of residual sugar more than appeases the taste buds. (MS)

Far from the wild and funky excesses of spontaneous fermentation, it can also take on a most enchanting herbal expression with just a gentle nod to the Provence and that’s the fragrant route the Kirchspiel goes down. If you were lulled into a sensory comfort zone by the nose, you will snap out of it on the palate, where the taste of cool mint and salty minerality is even more vitalised by lemony acidity and a sorrel-like crunch. Austere but not mean. (MS)

The Morstein used to be the early front-runner of Keller’s Grosse Gewächse and it can certainly still capture the olfactory attention with aromas of yellow fruit, apple blossom, vanilla and rosemary. On the palate it is not quite as taut as some of its siblings, quite rich in ripe local fruit flavours and showing a perfect sweet and sour balance. Stony minerality cools down the finish and turns exuberance into elegance. (MS)

At St Antony they have banked on the talents of natural yeast to seduce the olfactory senses with the cool freshness of green herbs. A fine spicy aroma lends its support to the cause. The taste puts its trust in a rich and juicy expression, although animating herbal notes are still given priority, well complemented by vibrant acidity. Almost a little wild and unruly at this early stage. (MS)

Whereas others may be looking for more mineral or herbal interpretation, Philipp Wittmann never loses sight of fruit and the Aulerde focuses on citrus and stone fruit, nicely complemented by gentle smoky and chalky nuances. Quite full bodied and generous on the palate, grapefruit with pith piquancy, restrained acidity, getting a little tauter towards the finish with an earthy mineral element. (MS)

Clean fragrance combines the fruit of fresh apple and citrus fruit, augmented by a delicate almondy notion. On the palate the juicy fruit is supplemented by a smidgeon of residual sugar and a delicate bitter nuance of almond and grapefruit pith. Once the fruit has wooed the taste buds, it gets a little more rugged but never rough with a tactile stony minerality. Plenty of substance. (MS)

Very fine on the nose, which features elements of ripe green fruit, lemon zest and a gentle chalky mineral aroma. Quite broad, but also very lively on the palate with just a tiny remnant of CO₂. Generous fruit with an exotic leaning which includes a fraction of bitter-orange piquancy. Healthy but not prominent acidity and rich texture take care of a harmonious balance. (MS)

The Morstein already impresses visually with a bright greenish robe. The nose is tempted with exotic fruit from citrus to pineapple, complemented by delicate spicy and earthy nuances. Very rich and seductive on the palate in its presentation of peach, pineapple and caramelised orange. Acidity lies very low, which emphasises the opulent character of the taste but interest is raised by spicy and mineral nuances. A hint of clove seems to point at tastefully applied wood-ageing. (MS)

Still a little unsettled on the nose, but already seductively winking a fine composition of lemon meringue and vanilla. This may not seem compatible with an almost aggressive phenolic note on the palate but the apparent sensory opposites both indicate one and the same thing – the influence of wood. They will take time to get together but one can take courage from the reassuring presence of citrus fruit and a subtle salty minerality. (MS)

On the nose of the Kreuzberg, Mediterranean herbs are first to the olfactory post but ably supported by delicate notes of citrus fruit and an intriguing peppery nuance. On the palate the fruit ranges from apricot to orange with zest and peel, served on a generous texture and well balanced by a healthy measure of acidity. The finish is refined by elements of stony minerality and just a gentle touch of bitter almond. An expertly administered mere flicker of residual sugar successfully rounds off the sensory performance. (MS)

Although still fairly restrained on the nose, gentle aromas of flint and mint reveal the influence of ambient yeast on the fragrance. The palate exhibits a little more fruit, but also some salty minerality and both are embedded together in a rich texture. (MS)

Spicy and even slightly nutty aromas accompany a fragrance of ripe green fruit. On the palate Knipser’s Steinbuckel impresses with an alliance of crisp fruit, marked acidity and salty piquancy. Full in flavour, taut in structure. (MS)

The stony minerality of the Steinbuckel could have been expected but the initial pronounced vegetal aromatics caused by spontaneous fermentation come as a bit of a surprise. Given a little more aeration, the fragrance takes a turn to more conciliatory and attractive notes of Mediterranean herbs and even an enchanting hint of lavender. The palate adds stone fruit with plenty of bite and a pronounced rocky minerality. (MS)

At this early, stage ambient yeast still dominates olfactory proceedings but in a clean and fresh expression of green herbs. On the palate, salt cubes dictate the flavour; it’s almost like running your tongue over their craggy edges. Invigorating, cool and vibrant with sappy mint just peering through the sensory curtain on the long finish. (MS)

Classic Palatinate on the nose with a wealth of yellow fruit and even some more-exotic notes. In the mouth the fruit is ripe and sweet with plenty of juice, served on a rich texture. A dry Riesling with luscious opulence. (MS)

Although the Breumel can impress with plenty of ripe fruit from local orchards, there’s also a subtle mineral component in the background. The taste pleases with a fresh and juicy expression of apple, a spicy notion adorns the finish. (MS)

On the nose there’s no denying a certain fragrance related to wood-ageing but there are also aromas of meadow herbs and a hint of tropical fruit. The flavour knows how to flatter the palate with juicy mandarin, a drop of pineapple and a fair dollop of residual sugar. (MS)

The southern Palatinate may not exactly be known as a stronghold of fine dry Riesling but Rebholz always manages to present the exception to this rule. And although the Kastanienbusch comes from one of the warmest parts of Germany, it’s an almost austere expression of minerality and delightful herbal freshness, rather than fruit which captures the olfactory perception. Very taut on the palate, a little chewy stone fruit is allowed. Plenty of edge spells plenty of potential. (MS)

On the nose Von Buhl’s Ungeheuer woos the olfactory receptacles with the ripe aromatics of yellow fruit. A hint of almond sets a nutty accent. On the palate the juicy fruit of apple and peach meets up with notes of zesty citrus to create a truly animating taste experience. (MS)

The Köppel leaves a lasting sensory impression of aromatic fruit on the nose, which manifests itself on the palate with the taste of gooseberries and even a hint of cassis. One feels reminded of Sauvignon Blanc but I have recently learned that this may be the work of a particular Riesling clone known to growers as clone 20. One never stops learning, or at least one shouldn’t. (MS)